Zhangjiajie Travelogue
Last winter, I took a quick trip to Zhangjiajie with a colleague during a business visit. With time tight and the New Year approaching, I only skimmed the scenery and snapped a few photos. Ever since, I've felt it wasn't enough—Zhangjiajie deserves a proper return visit.
This article is compiled from the original travel notes on the "Zhangjiajie Tour Guide Network" (33519.com); it is a record of trips from earlier years. Time-sensitive information such as ticket prices, schedules, and accommodation prices is subject to the latest announcements from scenic areas and transportation authorities; the itinerary ideas and attraction introductions still have reference value.
Last December, a colleague and I went to Zhangjiajie on business, and took the opportunity to hurriedly tour the scenic area there. Because time was tight and the New Year was approaching, I was eager to get home for the reunion, so I only took a fleeting look and snapped a few photos. After returning home, I always felt that it was not enough. I always felt that Zhangjiajie was still worth visiting properly once more.
This year I finished my March tasks early, and because of issues on the client's side, my April tasks had not yet come down. It happened that my girlfriend Xiaolan, who is a teacher, was on holiday and was very bored staying at home. After discussion, we decided to go to Zhangjiajie once, and if we still had time and energy, to also go to Fenghuang. Before that, we needed to contact a good tour guide surnamed Jiang. Meeting a guide who is not crooked is our greatest wish. When traveling away from home, safety and peace of mind are indispensable. Only on that basis could we be happy and truly relax.
We flew from Xiamen and landed at Zhangjiajie's Hehua Airport. Guide Jiang said to wait for us at the bus station in the city that goes to the Forest Park. Following Guide Jiang's advice, we did not take a TAXI inside the airport, but walked out of the airport to take one, because Guide Jiang told us that inside the airport it would cost 30 yuan, while outside it could be done for only 15. When we reached the bus station, Guide Jiang had already been waiting for a long time. In the city, Guide Jiang took us to a self-service hot pot restaurant. Because Zhangjiajie is located in northwestern Hunan, close to Chongqing, Zhangjiajie's hot pot is quite similar to Chongqing hot pot. We ate until sweat streamed down our faces, but we just kept saying, "Awesome!"
After the meal, we headed to the scenic area. We went by taxi. At first I asked the driver the price, and 80 yuan was not a cent less, with a tough attitude. Guide Chen said, these two are my friends, don't be like that, 60 yuan. It will be easier to do business next time. The driver looked, then got out and opened the door. The scenery along the way was enchanting and dazzling. Guide Chen kept explaining the history and origins of Zhangjiajie the whole way. My girlfriend Xiaolan was intoxicated listening. The more than 40-minute drive passed in the blink of an eye.
When we arrived at the main entrance, Guide Jiang helped us buy tickets, 248 yuan/person, totaling 496 yuan. Guide Jiang had previously budgeted for us according to the most economical accounting, 470 yuan/person (including the main entrance ticket to the mountain, but not including cableway, sky ladder, drinks, etc.). She said that when traveling away from home, save where you can. Of course she also knew we might exceed that standard, and if necessary, we could spend more ourselves later. After buying the tickets, I gave her 500 yuan as the fee for these days. She said, didn't we agree it was 470 per person? You should give me 444 yuan. I said, last time thank you for your care; this time I can't let you lose too much. Guide Jiang said, then tonight I'll ask the shop to add a dish for you, hehehe.
In the afternoon, we visited Huangshizhai and Jinbianxi in the Forest Park. We saw Tianshu Baoxia, Dianjiangtai, Nantianzhu, Zhaixingtai, Liuqige, Wuzhifeng, Jinbianxi, Jinbianyan, Wenxingyan, Zicaotan, Qianli Xianghui and so on. Guide Jiang was indeed Guide Jiang; with her rich guiding experience, she was truly extraordinary. She was thoroughly familiar with every scenic spot and explained them all clearly and convincingly. (According to what is said online, some guides only lead the way without explaining, letting people see only the surface and unable to appreciate Zhangjiajie's exquisite and poignant legends. I personally think Zhangjiajie's legends are also worth every visitor understanding and appreciating. If you come to Zhangjiajie and do not hear these legends, then first it is a problem with your guide's level, and second it is a great regret for you; your experience of coming to Zhangjiajie is incomplete.) Such things as the origin of the lobster flower, the former identity of Jinbianyan, and the relationship between Qin Shi Huang and Meng Jiangnu and Zhangjiajie. At night we took the Bailong Elevator up to Yuanjiajie (the core of Zhangjiajie) and stayed at an inn. At dinner, there was one meat dish, one vegetable dish, and one soup. As we were eating, the owner smilingly brought over a hot pot, a local free-range chicken hot pot. We were very surprised. I said, we did not order this dish! Boss, did you make a mistake? The owner said, your Guide Jiang told me to make it specially. I suddenly understood; it must have been because of the extra 50-plus yuan I gave Guide Jiang. Because of the long journey and all the walking in the afternoon, I took a shower at night and went to sleep. The temperature in the mountains was very low. While the whole country was like a furnace, Zhangjiajie at night required thick quilts. It really is a treasured place.
The next morning, we visited the scenery of Yuanjiajie. The most famous among them, of course, is Tianxia Diyi Qiao, formed by the summits of two rocky mountains naturally growing together, something no human could create. The title of Number One Bridge Under Heaven is fully deserved. Of course, in Yuanjiajie, the Back Garden is also something you cannot miss. Zhangjiajie is known as "three thousand peaks, eight hundred waters," and here you can clearly feel how true the first half of that saying is. After seeing Zhangjiajie's core, Yuanjiajie, we took a bus to Tianzi Mountain (the highest place within the Zhangjiajie scenic area). We visited Helong Park, Yubi Feng, Xiannu Sanhua, Xihai, Shichuan Chuhai, Xianren Qiao, Tianzi Temple, Shili Gallery, and Yibu Nanxing. Unfortunately, that day there was a little shower on the mountain. After the rain, a rainbow hung in the sky, and more importantly, some mist rose on the mountain, shrouding the whole mountain in fog, appearing indistinct, as if in a sea of clouds. It seemed as if heaven had specially cooperated with us; the rarely seen Xihai and other sights were exactly what we encountered. Guide Jiang told us that such an opportunity is very rare, and perhaps Zhangjiajie gave me a special gift to thank me for coming again. I laughed heartily. At night we hurried back to the place where we had stayed the day before. I will not go into detail.
On the third day we visited Wulongzhai, Sandao Guimenguan, Tianbofu, Yibu Dengtian, Kongzhong Zoulang and so on. This was mainly within the Yangjiajie scenic area. Originally we were supposed to go to Fenghuang on the third afternoon, but considering that my girlfriend Xiaolan and I had finally come to Zhangjiajie once, we tried to visit as many places in Zhangjiajie as possible. I had also heard that Zhangjiajie not only has three thousand peaks and eight hundred waters, but its natural karst caves are also very good. It is said that for one of the caves, insurance worth 100 million or 200 million was taken out on a single stalactite (I do not remember very clearly, hehe). And in Zhangjiajie's promotional materials I also saw very exciting activities such as rafting and water fights. So I asked Guide Jiang whether she could help us arrange them. Guide Jiang readily agreed. She helped us contact the companies for Jiutian Cave and Maoyan River. Through Guide Jiang's efforts at both ends, the original market price of 315 yuan/person was actually brought down to 278 yuan/person. By the time all this was settled, it was already completely dark outside (Guide Jiang's home is in Yangjiajie). Guide Jiang said she wanted to go home and take a look. Tomorrow we would go with a group to see the cave and go rafting, and she would not accompany us. Tomorrow afternoon she would pick us up in Zhangjiajie city, and there would be a car to take us into the city. Then she would send us to the car to Fenghuang and help us contact friends in Fenghuang to host us.
On the fourth day, early in the morning we set off by bus to see the cave and go rafting. Jiutian Cave, known as Asia's number one cave, truly lived up to its reputation. We roughly walked through the part currently developed, and it took us nearly 4 hours. Stalactites were everywhere in the cave, and under the colorful lights they appeared crystal clear and sparkling, making people feel as if they had arrived at a crystal palace. There was also an underground river below, and in the distance Tongzhi Sea (it is said). By the way, the temperature in the cave is very low, around 10-plus degrees year-round. It made people feel waves of chill inside. So friends who want to go in should remember to wear more clothes to avoid catching cold, remember that. At the time we suffered a great deal; when we came out of the cave, Xiaolan was coughing. In the afternoon we came to Maoyan River for rafting. Before boarding the boat, I saw someone selling water ladles, and I could not help but feel puzzled. Although the water of Zhangjiajie's Jinbianxi can be drunk, not every river's water can be drunk, right? So I went up to ask, and only then did I learn that these ladles were not for scooping water to drink, but for water fights. Originally, because Xiaolan had a slight cold, we planned to remain neutral, but when we saw that all the boatmates were rubbing their fists and wiping their palms, each with a ladle or water gun (this is a kind of local bamboo-made water gun), and moreover eyeing us covetously, I thought there was no way I could stay out of it. So we also spent a few yuan to buy two. After the boat started, everyone was relatively excited at first, occasionally using the ladles to paddle the boat, but before long everyone began looking for new ways to have fun, and so everyone began to stir into action. No one was polite either; regardless of whether others were ready to fight back, it was just strike first to gain the advantage. One boat opened fire first, and after that no one cared about anything anymore. Anyone within their attack range who was not on their own boat became a target. For a time smoke rose on all sides and water splashed everywhere; it was almost impossible to see others clearly. In any case, you could not open your mouth, or it was easy for someone to pour water into it. Each boat chose one member as captain. A friend from Beijing in our group volunteered to become our captain. So everyone followed his command. We all pulled together in the same boat, united as one. Although we were attacked from time to time, everyone was having an absolutely happy time. There was a temporary truce, and after passing several rapids, everyone fought again. This time, people no longer attacked without purpose. After several captains discussed it, everyone formed an alliance to deal together with that most ferocious boat that relied on being full of men... The result was that two "tough guys" on that boat were splashed off into the water. But the boat was made of rubber, so it was thrilling but not dangerous. In the end, when we reached the finish, everyone had become a person of water. But everyone was extremely happy. In the afternoon, the rafting company's car took us into the city. Unfortunately, Xiaolan caught a cold because she had been chilled in the morning and then got soaked in the afternoon. Guide Jiang had long been waiting at the bus station. We went to eat something again.
Originally we should have gone to Fenghuang, but because of Xiaolan's cold, we had to cancel the plan. Guide Jiang helped me buy a plane ticket home, and also called her friend in Fenghuang, explained the situation, and canceled the room booked there. Finally, she saw us onto the plane home.
This trip to Zhangjiajie brought even greater gains than the last one. It strengthened the friendship between Guide Chen and me, and at the same time, I also felt fortunate for myself that on coming to Zhangjiajie I could meet a guide like Guide Jiang.
Strong recommendations:
1. Enter the mountains after rain; the mountains are wreathed in clouds and mist, truly a "fairy mountain."
2. I do not approve of joining a tour group; with a tour group you cannot see some of the good scenic spots, and even less can you take good photos.
3. Zhangjiajie guides fall into two kinds. One is like Guide Chen whom we hired, not attached to a travel agency. These guides are good people and also cheap. The other kind is guides in travel agencies, whose attitude is not very good and whose fees are expensive. Here, I strongly suggest everyone hire the former kind, that is, guides like
Guide Chen, because they can take you to places that travel agencies do not go to, and which are often the very best
places to visit.
4. Ordering dishes in the scenic area is relatively expensive. You can ask the guide to arrange full-board meals for you; that will be much cheaper. I suppose I do not need to say this.