Free-Spirited Fenghuang Guide
Calling this a guide isn't quite right—it's just my own route. There may be many more good places in Fenghuang I didn't get to this trip; for reference only. Please forgive any shortcomings. Departed Changsha on the evening of the 26th on train N566 to Jishou, leaving at 23:00 and arriving around 6:30 a.m. (hard sleeper middle berth 152 yuan; return N56...)
This article is compiled from the original travel notes on the "Zhangjiajie Tour Guide Network" (33519.com); it is a record of trips from earlier years. Time-sensitive information such as ticket prices, schedules, and accommodation prices is subject to the latest announcements from scenic areas and transportation authorities; the itinerary ideas and attraction introductions still have reference value.
Calling this a guide seems a bit inaccurate; it is just my own route map. Perhaps Fenghuang has many more good places that I did not get to on this trip. It is for reference only! Please forgive any shortcomings.
On the evening of the 26th, depart from Changsha, taking N566 from Changsha to Jishou, departing at 23:00 and arriving around 6:30 in the morning (hard sleeper middle berth 152 yuan; return trip N568 departs at 10:20 a.m. and arrives in Changsha at 18:20). At the train station there are buses directly to Fenghuang, 14 yuan, but no ticket (those who need to reimburse tickets please note: you can take a taxi, 3.5 yuan to the bus station to catch a bus, where tickets are provided). After about more than an hour's ride, you arrive at the transfer station outside Fenghuang Ancient City. To the city area, take a taxi for 4 yuan or a minibus for 1 yuan. Generally you get off at Nanhua Gate. The bus operator will remind tourists to get off. Inside the gate is the ancient city.
There are many small inns in the city. As long as it is not Golden Week or the peak tourist season (it is said that during Golden Week prices can increase fivefold!), you basically do not need to worry about accommodation. The prices are cheap, generally 40-60 yuan per bed, and the living conditions are not bad. I came alone, so I found a single room for only 40 yuan at the famous Tuojiang Renjia Inn, which is very popular. I suggest choosing your accommodation first, putting down your luggage, and then touring slowly. It is worth noting that the living environment needs to be chosen carefully. Fenghuang's nightlife is very rich. Friends who like to sleep early and rise early need to pay attention to the location of the inn. Some inns face the river and the scenery is very good, but there are many bars along the Tuojiang River, and bands often sing until very late (the scenery at Tuojiang Renjia is superb, but the noise is also extreme). Friends who want to rest early should pay attention. Generally, quieter inns do not face the river. If you want a quiet inn that faces the river, you need to go to the two ends upstream and downstream of Hongqiao. The location is a bit remote, but not much worse.
At 9 a.m. I arrived at the inn, and at the inn I happened to meet some people from my hometown. They planned to go to Ala for sightseeing, so I went along with them, taking advantage of the convenience. It was a small van that could seat about six tourists. Chartering the car for a day was 60 yuan. Generally the driver will recommend several scenic spots to you, where they probably get commissions (otherwise the fare should not be so cheap). At this time you have to choose for yourself. I strongly recommend going to a place called Tianlong Gorge (ticket 80, with a guide). It had only been developed for two years, and the scenery is very good, with mountains and water. It is well worth seeing, but without a chartered car, transportation is somewhat inconvenient. From the roadside you need to walk for a short while.
In addition, that day we also went to the Ala market. (To be honest, it was not very interesting—purely an agricultural and sideline products exchange base. Friends interested in eating fruit can stop for a while.) We also went to Huangsiqiao Ancient City. In the past it was actually an ancient military post. The ticket is 40 yuan, with a guide. Moreover, Huangsiqiao seems to have declined. It is said that there used to be a lot of tourists, but I clearly felt that it no longer had much popularity. The whole city is made of ancient buildings, simple and primitive. It is said that in the past you could go up the city wall freely, but now if you do not buy a ticket and are not led by a dedicated guide, you cannot get onto the city wall. Now going up the city wall requires passing through a local person's home. It is very hidden...
Over there is also an ancient fort called Shujiatang, which is recommended on maps, but the ticket price is absurdly expensive, very different from the ticket price I had investigated earlier. The highest ticket price we found was 12 yuan, but the 'staff' there, and I do not know whether they were real or fake, had no scenic spot charging procedures or certificates at all. Holding a few tickets in their hands, they raised the price on the spot and opened with 80 yuan, which scared us away...
On the way back there is a kiwifruit-selling base, about 1 yuan per jin, quite good. You can consider buying some.
At about 6 p.m. we returned to the ancient city. I had seen online that the Ambassador Hotel was quite famous. After eating there, I felt it was still pretty good. The price was moderate and the taste was good.
On the 28th, a family from the same inn went to a Miao village. I did not go with them, but it is said that the Miao village they visited was quite good, but I already do not remember the name. Sorry. But I think the Miao villages here should all be more or less the same. This is purely my personal feeling. Everyone can investigate locally when you get there. I did not collect information in this area.
I set out at 8:30 in the morning and went to see a place marked on the map called the Number One Stone Bridge Under Heaven (not the one that collapsed). It is very far from Fenghuang. On the way we passed Shanjing and were almost at Laershan. I had thought it was a scenic spot, but after going there I learned it was a very long highway bridge, 241 meters long, with the entire bridge body made of stone, spanning a canyon. It is very spectacular, but friends who are not studying architecture should not go. For tourism it really has no value. On the way back I happened to catch the Shanjing market. My luck was really very good! I suggest friends who want to visit a market should go to Shanjing. From food to Miao-style specialty products, everything is available. I picked up several hand-embroidered wristbands there. Shanjing also has a Miao museum, with a ticket price of 30-40 yuan. I did not go in either. From the materials outside, it has a Miao clothing exhibition. Friends interested in clothing can go take a look. Laymen like me can forget it. (The minibus ticket is not expensive; it is 4 yuan to Shanjing.)
In the afternoon, after coming back from Shanjing, I also went to Qiliang Cave (from the transfer station outside Fenghuang, take a bus toward Jixin, and after about 5 kilometers you arrive). If you have been to Huanglong Cave, you can skip it, but people who like drinking can go in for a sniff. Inside there is a wine cellar of the Jiugui Liquor Factory. When you pass by, the aroma of the wine can come out through the cracks in the stone. Take a sniff and enjoy it! And remember, after going in you must have the guide sing. With the natural surround stereo inside, the guide MM's singing sounds even more beautiful! Hehe!
On the 29th, I wandered around the ancient city. The scenic spots in the ancient city use a one-stop through ticket, meaning individual attractions are not sold separately. The through ticket is 98 yuan each, and with credentials it can be discounted to 70 yuan. The attractions include:
The former residences of Shen Congwen and Xiong Xiling. There is no need to elaborate; everyone can go see them for yourselves.
Yang Family Ancestral Hall, said to have been built by descendants of the Yang family generals. Inside there are also Miao customs performances. The most amazing one is called the Crying Bed, which means that before a Miao girl gets married she must sit in front of her bed and cry desperately. The more she cries, the happier she will be in the future and the more filial she will be to her parents. But if you really watch it, what is left is you crying, because this is charged separately. After the girl cries, there is an additional charge of 80 yuan...
East Gate Tower, formerly a defensive stronghold of the ancient city. On it there are several ancient cannons from the Wanli period, though I do not know whether they are real or fake.
Hongqiao, go up to the second floor and you can see the scenery on both sides of Hongqiao. It is also a leisure place where you can sit down and drink a cup of hot tea. Of course, this should also require an additional charge.
Wanshou Palace is a merchant guild hall from Anhui. The building was newly repaired after collapsing. On the second floor inside there is also an exhibition of paintings by the elderly Mr. Huang Yongyu. I think this is what is truly worth seeing.
Chongde Hall was the courtyard of the former richest man in Fenghuang. Inside there are many ancient objects, including plaques and so on. The most famous is still the item locally called Ox Horn (it seems to be called that, in the leftmost exhibition hall), used to decorate the building facade. The carving is extremely fine, carved with nine lions. It is said that nationwide there are only two pieces with this level of carving skill: one in an ancient town in Jiangnan, and the other is this one in Fenghuang.
Tuojiang boating is included in the through ticket. You cannot skip it. It is a boat of the tourism company. Of course, you can also find a private boat, 10 yuan per person, but it cannot reach the most scenic section inside the ancient city, because that is the tourism company's territory. While boating, there will be Miao girls singing mountain songs. When the boat turns back, if you are interested you can sing a couple of lines in reply! What I sang was... 'The girl across the way, look over here...'
Besides these, there is another major feature of Fenghuang at night: bars. There are many stilted-house bars on both sides of the Tuojiang River. Every night some small bands sing enthusiastically inside. They are all about the same. I have never gone in either. Those interested can check online; there are several famous ones. Here I recommend a quiet bar: Shouma Xifeng. The owner's surname is Ma, said to be the 19th-generation descendant of Ma Zhiyuan. It is downstream of Hongqiao, very close to Tuojiang Renjia. It is very quiet there, very suitable for a small private gathering of three or five good friends. In addition, it depends on luck. On the last night before I left, I encountered a band singing under the East Gate Tower. Remember to bring your own beer, and you can also experience a bit of pop music in the ancient city. Of course, do not forget to put change in someone else's guitar bag.
That is basically all inside the city.
What remains is shopping. Fenghuang has many specialty products, so I will not say much here. I will just talk about the ones I went into.
Fenghuang's silver jewelry is very famous. There are many silver jewelry shops, both formal ones and roadside silver jewelry stalls. This depends on each friend's ability to judge, but it is said that the formal silver jewelry shops are basically still fairly reliable.
Ginger candy shops offer free tastings. If you're thick-skinned enough, just go from shop to shop to satisfy your cravings! Hehehe! Of course, I actually bought some properly! Good ginger candy is said to be made by boiling off all the moisture, so it doesn't get damp easily, and it doesn't stick to your teeth. As for which shop is better... my skin isn't thick enough... I haven't tried them all yet...
Batik shops — remember the name: Xiong's Shop. It has many fine batik paintings and handicrafts. At the time I wanted to bring one back for my mom, but she said no need. After I brought the photos home, she regretted it deeply...
There are also Miao embroidery items. You must keep your wits about you — some are indeed hand-embroidered, but machine-made ones are mixed in to pass off as the real thing.
Miao rice wine — they all taste pretty similar. If you're single, buy two or three liang in the evening, sit on the guesthouse balcony, sip a couple of cups while enjoying the view — how delightful!
On the north bank of the Tuo River, there's a matchstick shop called Matchstick Heaven. It has lots of creative little things. Friends can go look for it and check it out.
Except for the matchstick shop, I haggled everywhere else. How much you can knock off depends on your own skills, friends!
Also, if you're traveling alone like me, for meals you can try shefan (community rice), which is like our egg fried rice here — quite affordable. If you want a big feast, find a few fellow travelers and split the bill (AA style) — eat your fill!
The above is my Fenghuang travelogue. Overall, Fenghuang is worth a visit. The ancient town's rustic charm and modern fashion are organically combined — though I think some combinations go a bit overboard, but it's harmless. I hope if you get the chance to go, you'll have a great time!