The Complete Guide to Fenghuang Ancient Town
Once called one of China's most beautiful small towns by New Zealand writer Rewi Alley, Fenghuang Ancient Town was built in the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty. This 'pearl of Xiangxi' is truly 'small'—so small there's only one proper east-west main street, but it's a green corridor. Fenghuang is divided into old and new districts; the old town nestles by hills and water, with the shallow Tuo River running through...
This article is compiled from the original travel notes on the "Zhangjiajie Tour Guide Network" (33519.com); it is a record of trips from earlier years. Time-sensitive information such as ticket prices, schedules, and accommodation prices is subject to the latest announcements from scenic areas and transportation authorities; the itinerary ideas and attraction introductions still have reference value.
This 'Fenghuang Ancient Town,' once called one of China's most beautiful small towns by New Zealand writer Rewi Alley, was built during the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty. This 'Pearl of Xiangxi' is truly 'small'—so small that inside the town there is only one decent east-west main street, but it is a green corridor.
Fenghuang Ancient Town is divided into old and new districts. The old town nestles against the mountains and faces the water. The shallow Tuo River runs through the town. City walls built of red sandstone stand on the bank. Nanhua Mountain sets off the ancient gate tower. The gate tower is still from the Qing Dynasty. From the rusted iron gate, one can still make out its former mighty appearance. Below the north gate, a narrow wooden bridge stretches across the wide river, supported by stone piers. Two people facing each other must turn sideways to pass. This was once the only passage out of the town.
Taste Miao-style food
When it comes to food, in Fenghuang you must try the Miao-style free-range chicken, Miao-style cured meat, sour fish, and blood cake duck. You should also drink a few cups of home-brewed Miao glutinous rice wine with every meal. Although it is sweet, it has a strong aftereffect, so be careful. Before leaving, you can buy about 10 jin of wine and some cured meat from the restaurant. From 7 to 9 in the morning, walk inward along Dongzheng Street inside the East Gate and there is a breakfast place doing booming business. The owners are a couple. At the entrance they sell rice noodles, noodles, steamed buns, fried dumplings, pig ears, pig head meat, pig knuckles, and braised eggs.
On the streets of Fenghuang there are many young girls selling wild mountain fruit. The fruit is red, like small red mulberries, and is sold measured in small cups: fifty cents a cup, three cups for one yuan. Seeing the scratches all over the little girl's forearms, I decided to forget about bargaining.
Introduction to Fenghuang Scenic Spots
Fenghuang now sells a combined ticket. The big through ticket is 226 yuan, and the small through ticket (9 scenic spots in the ancient town) is 148 yuan. The big through ticket includes 11 scenic spots: Southern Great Wall, Qiliang Cave, plus the small through ticket (Former Residence of Shen Congwen, Ancient Town Museum, Chongde Hall, East Gate Tower, Yang Family Ancestral Hall, Tuo River Boating, Former Residence of Xiong Xiling, Hongqiao Art Building, Wanshou Palace; the above nine are the small through ticket). Now tickets for the nine scenic spots in the ancient town are not sold separately; a one-ticket system of 148 yuan is used. The ticket office is beside the Culture Square, at the Tourism Bureau ticket window. There is another ticket point at Hongqiao.
Former Residence of Shen Congwen
Recommended level ★★★
On December 28, 1902, the famous writer, historian, and archaeologist Mr. Shen Congwen was born here—a small courtyard with Ming and Qing architectural style. In the middle of the small courtyard there is a patio, and there are 10 rooms in total. It was built in the early Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty by Shen Congwen's grandfather, Shen Hongfu. Shen Congwen spent his childhood and youth here.
There are three things to do here: first, pay respects to Mr. Shen and indulge in thoughts of antiquity; second, buy Mr. Shen's books; third, stamp the books with a commemorative seal of the former residence, so that whenever you read them later, you can recall this happy time. Located at No. 10 Zhongying Street in the ancient town.
Category: History and culture, ancient architecture, photography
Transportation directions: It is inside the ancient town, reachable on foot
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: The main scenic spots in the ancient town all use a one-ticket system. The original Eight Scenes of the Ancient Town were changed to Nine Scenes in early 2008. Ticket price 148 yuan/person
Former Residence of Xiong Xiling
Recommended level ★★★
Located in a small alley on Wenxing Street in the north of the ancient town. It covers an area of 800 square meters. The doors and windows are wooden structures, either carved with flowers or painted with designs. The design is generous and the workmanship exquisite. It is a typical ancient Miao courtyard architectural style, full of ethnic flavor.
Category: Scenery, history and culture, ancient architecture
Transportation directions: In the ancient town, reachable on foot
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: It belongs to the Nine Scenes of the Ancient Town. You can visit with the 148-yuan combined ticket
Yang Family Ancestral Hall
Recommended level ★★★
The best-preserved ancestral hall in Fenghuang so far, located by the ancient city wall in the northeast of the county seat. It was built in the 16th year of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty (1836) with donations from Yang Fang, Crown Prince's Junior Guardian, Guoyong Marquis, and Zhengan Commander. The ancestral hall consists of the main gate, stage, passing pavilion, side rooms, main hall, and wing rooms.
Category: History and culture, ancient architecture
Transportation directions: In the ancient town, reachable on foot
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: It belongs to the Nine Scenes of the Ancient Town. You can visit with the 148-yuan combined ticket
Tian Family Ancestral Hall
Recommended level ★★★★
The largest ancestral hall in Fenghuang. Located on Laoyingshao Street on the north bank of the Tuo River. It was first built in the 17th year of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty (1837), with donations from Tian Xingxu, then imperial commissioner and Guizhou military commander, a Miao native of Fenghuang, who led clan members to contribute funds. In the early Republic of China period, Tian Yingzhao (son of Tian Xingxu), commander of Xiangxi and lieutenant general of the Kuomintang, spent huge sums to finally complete it.
This is a complex of buildings with strong ethnic characteristics, with more than 20 rooms including the main gate, main hall, and stage, as well as patios, ponds, and corridors. It also has two gates, 'Wufu' and 'Liushun.'
Category: History and culture, ancient architecture
Transportation directions: Upstream on the river, 8-10 minutes on foot
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: It belongs to the Nine Scenes of the Ancient Town. You can visit with the 148-yuan combined ticket. Wenchang Pavilion
Wenchang Pavilion
Recommended level ★★
Also called Wenchang Temple, it is a place for worshipping the Wenchang star. Located below Huwei Peak in the south of the city. Here ancient trees reach the sky, the scenery is charming and beautiful, old elms and ancient locust trees shade each other, green bamboo and banana plants set each other off, the architecture is exquisite, and the scale is grand. During the Republic of China period, this was a 'model national school.' Many Fenghuang celebrities, including Shen Congwen, Huang Yongyu, Liu Zuchun, Zhu Zaoguan, Li Zhenjun, and Xiao Jimei, studied here. It is now the location of Wenchang Pavilion Primary School.
Category: Scenery, history and culture, ancient architecture, photography, exploration
Transportation directions: Next to the Cultural Square, enter from the Tuanjie Bridge Nongmao Market
Opening hours: Not a scenic spot
Tickets: None
Huilongge Stilted Houses
Recommended level ★★★★
The Huilongge stilted house complex is located in the southeast of the ancient city, facing the old official road in front and hanging over the Tuo River at the back. It is one of the ancient architectural complexes with rich ethnic characteristics in Fenghuang Ancient City. Most of them are two stories, all belonging to the through-joint wooden structure of five columns with six brackets or five columns with eight brackets. The upper floor is spacious, with complex craftsmanship and exquisite workmanship. The roof is a hip-and-gable roof with upturned eaves, and there are carved railings, doors, and windows. The lower floor occupies an irregular area and is not used as formal rooms, but the wooden hanging parts below are all finely carved, with golden melon and various animal head and floral patterns. The corridors or rooms that extend out from the upper and lower tie beams hang over the river channel, forming a unique scenery.
Category: Scenery, Ancient Architecture, Photography
Tickets: None
North Gate Tower
Recommended level ★★★
Originally named "Bihui Gate," it is commonly known as the North Gate Tower because it is located on the north side of the ancient city. The North Gate Tower was first built in the Ming Dynasty. The North Gate Tower and the East Gate Tower are connected by city walls. It faces the clear Tuo River in front and served both a military defensive purpose and a urban flood control function, forming a solid barrier for the ancient city. Although Bihui Gate has gone through several wars, it still stands majestically on the bank of the Tuo River.
Category: Scenery, Ancient Architecture, Photography
Tickets: None
Tuo River Jumping Rocks
Recommended level ★★★
Located in the Tuo River channel outside the North Gate of Fenghuang Ancient City, it was first built in the 43rd year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1704). In the old days, it was one of the main routes entering Fenghuang Ancient City from the northeast. The jumping rocks are 100 meters long in total, with 15 rock piers arranged in a row across the Tuo River bed. The distance between piers is 5 meters. Wooden planks are laid on top, and the planks are bound tightly with iron chains and fixed to iron stakes on both sides of the river to prevent them from being washed away by floods.
Category: Scenery
Transportation directions: Next to Tian Family Ancestral Hall
Duocui Tower
Recommended level ★★★
Located at Huilongge in the east of the city, it is the studio of the famous painter Huang Yongyu and has a memorial-archway-style structure. The entire building features ancient-looking dark tiles, upturned flying eaves, and carved wooden windows, resembling a pavilion or waterside house.
Category: Scenery, history and culture, ancient architecture
Transportation directions: It is a private residence, generally you cannot enter, view from outside
Stone Slab Old Street
Recommended level ★★★
A bluestone slab street less than 5 meters wide, running west from Daomenkou, passing through Cross Street, Dongzheng Street, Xizheng Street, Huilongge, Yingshaochong, Doushanla, Jieguan Pavilion, Shen Congwen's Tomb, all the way to the Number One Spring Under Heaven, with a total length of more than 3,000 meters. It is the busiest commercial street in Fenghuang. The buildings and alleys on both sides of the road allow you to fully enjoy the myriad charms of the ancient town.
Rainbow Bridge
Recommended level ★★★★
Originally named Wohong Bridge, it was built in the 9th year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1670) and rebuilt in the 3rd year of the Republic of China, when it was renamed Rainbow Bridge. The bridge has two piers and three arches and is a stone arch bridge built of local red sandstone. Originally, on both sides of the bridge deck there were 12 stilted wooden houses each, housing food and general merchandise shops, with a 2-meter-wide pedestrian corridor in the middle. A roof was built above the corridor, so walking through the corridor provided shelter from wind and rain, hence it was also called Wind and Rain Tower. After repeated demolition and construction, the Rainbow Bridge Scenic Tower was rebuilt again at the end of 1999, with both sides still used as shops, though it is hard to say how much of its former appearance can now be restored.
Category: Scenery, history and culture, ancient architecture, photography, exploration
Transportation directions: The first floor is a pedestrian passage, and the second floor offers views of the river scenery
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: It belongs to the Nine Scenes of the Ancient Town. You can visit with the 148-yuan combined ticket
Nanhua Mountain National Forest Park
Recommended level ★★★
Nanhua Mountain stretches across the southern sky of the ancient city, forming a semi-encircling position around the county town. With flourishing trees and dense flowers and plants, it is also a natural green treasure house and animal paradise. On the mountainside there is a "Fenghuang County Revolutionary Martyrs Monument," 20 meters high, with reliefs around its base. Continuing up along the stone steps, there is "Yiting Pavilion," where tourists can stop and rest. It is a great place for hiking enthusiasts.
Category: Scenery
Transportation directions: 20 minutes on foot, 4-5 yuan by taxi
Tickets: None
Wanming Pagoda
Recommended level ★★★
Located on the bank of the Tuo River at the foot of Dongling Mountain, it leans east toward the richly carved Xiachang Pavilion and looks west toward the rainbow-like Wind and Rain Bridge. The pagoda is now 21 meters high and is a large six-sided brick pagoda. Its surface is decorated with colored paintings and sculptures; all six sides have arched doors and windows, and the small pagoda is exquisite and elegant.
Category: Scenery, Historical and Cultural Heritage, Ancient Architecture, Photography
Transportation directions: Inside the ancient city, it can be seen on foot, and tourists cannot climb up.
Tickets: None
Qifeng Mountain
Recommended level ★★
The former site of Qifeng Temple. Although the temple no longer exists, its scenery remains lofty, ancient, and tranquil. From this mountain there is an excellent viewpoint to see the Tuo River, stilted houses, Rainbow Bridge, Duocui Tower, Wanming Pagoda, and other sights.
Category: Scenery
Transportation directions: An octagonal tower has just been built on the mountain. It is not yet officially open, and the road has not been completed.
Huangsiqiao Ancient Town
Recommended level ★★★
A well-preserved ancient military camp — built in the 2nd year of the Chuigong reign of the Tang Dynasty (686 AD), it was the county seat of Weiyang County at that time. It was originally an earthen city, and in the Ming Dynasty it was rebuilt as a mixed earth-and-stone city to suppress the Miao people. As Miao uprisings increased, the Qing government rebuilt it in the 39th year of the Kangxi reign into a defensive city entirely made of stone.
Huangsiqiao Ancient City is rectangular, with a total length of 686 meters, and is the most completely preserved stone city in China. The ancient city has only three gates: east, west, and north, with no south gate. Because there was a lack of water when it was built, and in architectural terms the south belongs to fire, opening a south gate would easily bring fire into the city, so for good fortune no south gate was built.
Category: Scenery, Historical and Cultural Heritage, Ancient Architecture, Photography
Transportation directions: Take a bus toward Jishou from the North Station, or a direct bus, arriving in about half an hour.
Opening hours: Currently closed, residents are being relocated
Tickets: 20 yuan/person
Southern Great Wall
Recommended level ★★★
Fenghuang Southern Great Wall was first built during the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty, with a total length of 190 kilometers. The wall is about 3 meters high, 2 meters wide at the base, and 1 meter wide at the top. It crosses mountains and rivers, with most of it built on steep ridges. The Southern Great Wall seen today has been rebuilt on the original site. Climbing the Great Wall, you can take in the pastoral scenery at a glance. You can also vaguely see some remaining broken walls and beacon towers from back then, recalling the former grandeur and elegance of the Southern Great Wall.
Category: Scenery, Historical and Cultural Heritage, Ancient Architecture, Photography
Transportation directions: Take a bus at Ala Station, arriving in 20 minutes
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: It belongs to the Nine Scenes of the Ancient Town. You can visit with the 148-yuan combined ticket
Qiliang Cave
Recommended level ★★★
Known as the second cave of China, it is located in Qiliangqiao Township northeast of Fenghuang Ancient City, on the way from Fenghuang to Jishou. Inside the cave, the grotesque rocks are jagged and vividly resemble scenes and objects.
Category: Scenery
Transportation directions: Take a bus toward Jixin from the North Station, arriving in about 10 minutes, fare 2 yuan/person
Opening hours: Winter 8:00-5:30, Summer 7:30-6:00
Tickets: 60 yuan/person
Shanjiang Miao Village
Recommended level ★★★
Also known as Zongbing Camp, and called "Bagu" in the Miao language, it is located in a valley 20 kilometers northwest of the ancient town, a small mountain village full of Miao life. Many ancient Miao customs are preserved here. If you are lucky enough to visit Shanjiang, the dazzling Miao costumes, the uniquely charming gate-blocking wine, and the distinctive kagu drums, road-blocking songs, and bianbianchang gatherings will leave you enchanted and refreshed.
Category: Scenery, Folk Customs
Transportation directions: Ask your guesthouse to book tickets for you; there is a shuttle bus every day, or you can take a bus from Shanjiang Station. The road conditions are poor, and the journey takes quite a lot of time.
Tickets: 88 yuan, 10 yuan cheaper for students. You can also skip the ticket and just wander around without joining activities. It is best to go on a market day, when it is crowded and lively.
Shujiatang
Recommended level ★★★
Located in Huanghe Township, Fenghuang County, also known as Shujiatang, it was once the garrison camp in Fenghuang of Yang Zaisi, the third son of Yang Liulang of the Yang family generals of the Northern Song Dynasty. The planning of the ancient castle is very distinctive and reasonable. There are 13 large stone gates still standing in the city, all built from single blocks of stone, with an extraordinary imposing presence.
Category: Scenery, history and culture, ancient architecture, photography, exploration
Transportation directions: Take a bus from the North Station for one hour to get there. There are also dedicated registration points with shuttle service.
Tickets: 128 yuan
Laodong Miao Village
Recommended level ★★★★
An old Miao village that only opened to the public in 2005, hidden in the mountains at the border of Hunan and Guizhou. It counts as one of the most primitive Miao villages, with no electricity. If going from Fenghuang, you need to take a bus, then a boat, then walk. Deep in the mountains, the canyons you pass through along the way have beautiful scenery, and the buildings in the village are very distinctive.
Category: Scenery, Folk Customs, Photography
Transportation directions: You can sign up at your guesthouse on the same day, departing at 8:30 in the morning and returning at 4 or 5 in the afternoon.
Opening hours: Closed in winter; the roads are hard to travel
Tickets: 88 yuan, including meals
Some of the above images are from the internet.