Fenghuang–Zhangjiajie–Changde Self-Guided Travelogue
Friends who had been to Fenghuang all said its beauty differs from Lijiang's, and Zhangjiajie's mountains differ from Yunnan's. I had always hoped for a chance to see what makes Hunan different. Finally I arranged the time, and a friend and I packed our bags and set off for Hunan. Day One: Kunming. The first stop was planned for Fenghuang, if flying.
This article is compiled from the original travel notes on the "Zhangjiajie Tour Guide Network" (33519.com); it is a record of trips from earlier years. Time-sensitive information such as ticket prices, schedules, and accommodation prices is subject to the latest announcements from scenic areas and transportation authorities; the itinerary ideas and attraction introductions still have reference value.
Friends who had been to Fenghuang all said that Fenghuang's beauty is different from Lijiang's, and that Zhangjiajie's mountains are also different from Yunnan's mountains. In my heart I had always looked forward to a chance to go to Hunan and see exactly what was different. Finally I arranged the time, and my friend and I packed our bags and set off for Hunan.
Day One: Kunming
The first stop was planned for Fenghuang. If flying, we could only arrive first in Changsha or Changde, then have to take a return bus. So we had to take a train to Huaihua, Hunan. Because we were in a hurry for tickets, we only got middle berths, priced at 201 yuan per person. Dinner was in the dining car for 70 yuan. The first night was spent on the train.
Day Two: Huaihua, Fenghuang
After nearly nineteen hours, we finally arrived in Huaihua, pulling into the station at 11:58 noon. Out of the train station, we hurried to find something to eat and found in a small shop what was said to be a Hunan snack—casserole rice (it seems many places claim this as a local snack, and it's unclear where it actually originated). Then we went to Huaihua West Station to catch a bus to Fenghuang. The fare posted on the wall was 25 yuan per person, but the ticket window said 33 yuan each. With oil prices rising so high, the fare couldn't stay the same as before, and of course insurance was included.
After waiting for over an hour, the bus finally departed at 14:10. After countless sharp turns and bumpy roads, two and a half hours later, at 16:45, we finally arrived in Fenghuang. Ah! We had finally reached the long-awaited small town. I thought I would be excited, but before even getting off the bus, I felt at a loss. Before the bus had even stopped, a large group of middle-aged women crowded at the door. After getting off, before I could steady myself, a big circle of people was pulling at us, with seven or eight mouths talking to one person at once—it felt like the world was spinning. They all said their homes were by the Tuo River and urged us to stay there. We could only keep declining: 'Sorry, we've already arranged accommodation, thank you.' But they still wouldn't let go, following us for two or three hundred meters before giving up. We said we had arrangements, but we had no idea at all. Fortunately, it was still early, and we comforted each other that we would surely find a riverside inn.
Because the bus stopped near the Folk Custom Park, we took a wrong turn at a fork and kept walking uphill. We could see the Tuo River but couldn't find a way down. Walking along the road, we saw a house with high iron gates and walls, with regular script calligraphy at the entrance reading 'Enter Only by Invitation, Beware of Fierce Dogs,' and above the gate was posted 'Yu Family Residence.' We guessed it must be a local prominent family—this kind of grandeur couldn't be faked by the nouveau riche.
Finally, near the Fenghuang Bridge, we found a small path leading down. About to get close to the Tuo River, I began to feel a bit nervous. Would the beautiful Tuo River be as lovely as seen online before the trip, or was it just literary exaggeration? Before reaching the riverbank, there were many family inns. We asked about prices—70 yuan for a standard room. Thinking that having come so far to Fenghuang, we should stay in a stilted house to experience it, we started searching again. Finally, near the North Gate Tower, we found a riverside stilted house inn. A standard room with a small balcony where one could sit, drink tea, and watch the Tuo River flow slowly by beneath your feet—80 yuan per day. We paid for three days.
The inn was nestled in the gap between the city wall and the Tuo River. According to the owner, these riverside stilted houses used to belong to the poorest families in all of Fenghuang, but now things are naturally different. In the center of the inn's first-floor living room hung a photo of the owner with Song Zuying. It was unclear whether it was for advertising effect or as a cherished honor. The room was entirely decorated with pine wood, a very modern imitation of antiquity, and had a balcony. Opening the balcony door, the beautiful Tuo River was right before our eyes—we could enjoy the scenery anytime, drink tea, and quietly daydream here. We saw many tourists changing into Miao costumes and posing by the river, using the stilted houses on our side as a backdrop. Haha, maybe while I was drinking tea, I ended up in many people's photos, since this is also part of the ancient town. After resting a while and showering, when we went out, the sky had darkened. Neon lights were already lit on the opposite riverbank, and bars had started blasting their sound systems. We found a small shop and ordered stir-fried cured bacon. The skin was tough, and the meat had a smoky flavor, but there was too little lean meat and too much fat. Actually, the taste was pretty good. After dinner, we began measuring the ancient town on foot. The ancient town isn't large, mainly the area in front of Hong Bridge, built along the river. One side of the riverbank was brightly lit with bars and shops, while the other side had a few red lanterns hanging dimly, quietly forming a strong contrast with the liveliness across the river.
Day Three: Yanlake Miao Village, Tianlong Gorge
I heard that early morning and evening are the most beautiful times in Fenghuang. Before six o'clock, I heard the sound of someone beating clothes with a wooden stick by the Tuo River. Standing on the balcony looking down at the quiet Tuo River, the water was very clear and not very deep. Because it had rained the night before, it felt a bit chilly. It was a pity there was no thin mist to make it hazy. Slowly, tourists began to appear on the streets, and tour groups started coming out after seven. The night before, we had booked a one-day tour to a Miao village and Tianlong Gorge for 120 yuan per person, departing by bus from Nanhua Gate at ten. After about twenty minutes, we arrived at the foot of the Southern Great Wall. It's said this was also the boundary between the 'raw Miao' and 'cooked Miao' within the Miao people. We only took a quick look before leaving. On the way, the guide introduced some taboos in the Miao village and some simple Miao phrases. The most memorable was that goodbye is said as 'niurougan' (beef jerky), and taught everyone a folk song. He told us that when entering the Miao village, we would have to sing in antiphonal style, and if we couldn't, we'd have to drink alcohol—fifty or sixty percent proof—which scared everyone into studying hard. Who would want to end up drunk at the entrance before even experiencing the Miao village?
When we arrived at the Miao village, as soon as we got off the bus, several Miao youths were singing there. Everyone sang the folk song the guide had taught us, and that got us through. But we still had to drink. I heard someone nearby say they wouldn't let tourists get drunk, so we should take the chance to taste it. I boldly took it and took a hearty gulp—of course, it wasn't a big bowl, nor fifty or sixty percent proof, just a symbolic little bit. It tasted good, very much like rice wine. The Miao village wasn't very big, about fifty or sixty households. It was said that electricity only came a few years ago. Some houses were built of piled stones, others of mud bricks. While touring, the villagers also explained some of the Miao migration history. After going around almost the whole village, we went to watch a performance. A simple viewing platform had been set up in the center of the village. Although it was raining, neither the audience nor the performers got wet. They performed some scenes of ancestor worship, and later there was interaction, with questions about Miao customs and phrases the guide had taught on the bus. Finally, there was a bamboo pole dance. I remember when I went to Hainan before, the Li people danced bamboo poles, and now the Miao do it too. Next was a farmhouse meal, held in a home with a fairly large courtyard. It even had 'Commune Canteen' written on it, making us feel like we'd stepped into the 1970s. There were seven or eight dishes. Although rather rustic, everyone ate with relish. Oh, and using the toilet in the Miao village's pigsty cost one yuan. It seems Hunan's toilet fee standards are uniform, even if the facilities vary.
After the meal, we took the bus to Tianlong Gorge. After getting off, we walked along farmland for over ten minutes before entering the gorge. Then it started pouring rain. An ordinary umbrella couldn't keep you going. Fortunately, not far away, someone was selling raincoats in an abandoned wooden house. In no time, red, green, yellow, and blue raincoats dotted the winding path, making the whole valley come alive. The mountain body was clearly sedimentary rock. In some places, the distance between the two mountains was only two or three meters. Walking on the simple stairs and looking at the rushing waterfall below gave a thrilling feeling. Gazing at the towering peaks that pierced the clouds, one felt how small humans are. I thought of how bandits used to live in places like this—no wonder the PLA had such difficulty suppressing them. After the heavy rain, the air in the mountains felt especially fresh, and I couldn't help taking several deep breaths. Two hours later, we reached the end of the scenic area, seeing verdant greenery everywhere, and felt our whole bodies relax. Many people were still resting, not having recovered their energy. Since we had to return the same way, we discussed and decided to head back early. It was a great choice. Going in, it was like queuing—you could see people ahead and behind. Coming back was fantastic. There were few people returning, and for much of the time, it felt like just the two of us in the whole valley, taking photos freely and shouting freely. By the time we got back to Fenghuang, it was nearly six. In the evening, we ordered blood cake duck, a famous Fenghuang snack, made with glutinous rice, duck blood, and duck meat together, 38 yuan per portion, a very generous serving. The owner also recommended stir-fried fragrant greens with meat. The dishes all tasted very good. Two people ate until stuffed, and it only cost 53 yuan.
Day Four: Ximen Gorge
Again we woke to the sound of clothes being beaten. Opposite our inn, a pagoda stood out among the mountains. It wasn't specially marked on the map. After asking the inn owner, we learned that the grand gate of the prominent family we saw on the day we arrived and this pagoda belonged to the same family—the famous Fenghuang native Huang Yongyu. The owner said young people should go rafting at Ximen Gorge, 120 yuan per person, so around 10:30 we took a minibus to Ximen Gorge. After a ride of over an hour, we arrived. Fortunately, there weren't many tour groups. Most people at the scenic spot were queuing in order, but some still didn't want to. A staff member said something classic to one of them: 'A bamboo pole can't stop people, but it can stop people with manners.' The person had to slink back and queue. We bought a pair of straw sandals for five yuan to wear—very cool. Only after boarding the boat did we learn that you could have water fights midway, boat against boat, using a plastic ladle provided on the boat. In places where the current wasn't too fast, strangers on the same boat started water fights with people on another boat. The vigorous ones even broke their ladles. After rafting for an hour and a half, near the end, the boatman let us swim in the river. Whether you could swim or not, everyone could get in. We all wore life jackets so we wouldn't sink, and the river flowed slowly forward. With just a slight movement of hands and feet, you could move forward. Swimming in the gorge felt truly different—casual and thrilling, unimaginable. After rafting for over an hour and swimming in our clothes for another ten minutes, by the time we got on the return bus, we were so tired no one spoke. A tip for friends going rafting in the future: wear sandals, don't bring a change of clothes—there's nowhere to wash, better to change when you get back.
Back in Fenghuang, after showering, our energy recovered. We went out through Nanhua Gate to explore Fenghuang's new town and found a supermarket to stock up on snacks. Things in the supermarket were much cheaper than in the ancient town. Shen Congwen's former residence sits quietly in a small alley of the ancient town, in sharp contrast to the lively ginger candy sellers outside. Although we had plenty of time, we didn't visit Shen Congwen's grave—consider it a regret to be resolved on a future trip. For dinner, we ordered Miao-style pickled cabbage fish, 36 yuan per portion, enough for three or four people. We had dinner at different restaurants for three days, and the taste was fine, but we felt the flavors here were quite strong—somewhat spicy and salty. Remember to tell the owner to use less spice and less salt when ordering. We asked the inn owner to help buy tickets to Zhangjiajie for the next day, 61 yuan per person.
Day Five: Zhangjiajie
We departed Fenghuang at 8:30 in the morning. After a ride of over four hours, we arrived at the renowned Zhangjiajie. We saw a guide holding a sign to pick us up. After getting acquainted, we took a bus to the scenic area. There were many buses to the Forest Park. The fare from the station to the Forest Park was 10 yuan. On the bus, we looked at Zhangjiajie's cityscape, which was very different from what we had imagined—like a small county town that hadn't developed yet. After so many years of tourism development, how could it still be like this? Some intersections didn't even have traffic lights. After about forty or fifty minutes, we arrived at the Forest Park. Guide Chen took us to lunch at the park entrance; the restaurant wasn't far from the gate. Since we planned to stay three days in Zhangjiajie and stay inside the scenic area, we bought tickets directly to enter. The ticket was 248 yuan, and we also had to scan fingerprints at the gate—a sharp contrast with the city. The ticket was valid for two days, but we didn't need that. We walked along Golden Whip Stream. Guide Chen introduced the sights as we went. We walked and looked leisurely by the murmuring stream, in this natural oxygen bar, taking deep breaths from time to time—very comfortable.
After about an hour, we reached Purple Grass Pool. The sights along the way couldn't be recognized without Guide Chen's explanations. Some were quite interesting—depending on your imagination, they could look like this or that. After resting a while, we continued. An hour and a half later, we arrived at Water Surrounding Four Gates. We took the eco-bus to Bailong Elevator. I had seen many reports about the Bailong Elevator before. It is indeed quite spectacular, but also indeed out of harmony with the surrounding environment. The 56-yuan ticket felt a bit expensive. A few minutes later, we arrived at the upper station of the elevator, walked along a stone path to the mountaintop parking lot. After a dozen minutes on the eco-bus, we arrived at Guide Chen's farmhouse inn. Most of the nearby households were in the family inn business. The one we stayed in was quite clean, with hot water 24 hours a day, and it was fully booked before evening. By the time we showered and ate, it was already dark. Under the dim light, looking at the prices on the menu, I thought my eyes were playing tricks. Looking carefully again, I was right. Water spinach 38 yuan, stir-fried shredded meat with vegetables 68 yuan, Tujia chicken 168-288 yuan, and five yuan per person for rice. Fortunately, we had a three-day, two-night all-inclusive package for 470 yuan per person, including tickets, insurance, five main meals, two breakfasts, and two nights' accommodation. Later we felt our choice was correct.
Day Six: Yuanjiajie, Yangjiajie
Yuanjiajie's main sights include 'First Bridge, Soul-Enchanting Terrace, Back Garden.' This is also a regular stop for tour groups, so there were quite a few visitors. At First Bridge, there was a 'Tujia Spider-Man' performance—a Tujia young man doing moves on the cliff face. It's said that in the past, strong and agile local mountain people used rope ladders to harvest rock ear (a Zhangjiajie specialty, a tribute to the imperial court by the Tusi kings of Xiangxi through the dynasties), which gave rise to the Tujia Spider-Man. 100 yuan per performance. A small group paid 100 yuan, and I was embarrassed to watch for free from the side. The performance ended after 10 minutes. We walked 5 minutes to the Yuanjiajie parking lot, preparing to go to Yangjiajie Scenic Area.
Yangjiajie (mainly including Wulong Village, Tianbo Mansion, One Step to Heaven, and Sky Corridor). Here we boarded the scenic eco-bus heading toward Tianzi Mountain. After about 15 minutes, we arrived at Wulong Village. On the road to Wulong Village, there was a fork on the left leading to the two sights One Step to Heaven and Sky Corridor. Going to these two places takes about two hours round trip. If you're short on time, skip these two. We went to Wulong Village first. On the way, we passed a large rock that closely resembled a crowing rooster, aptly named 'Golden Rooster Crows at Dawn.' Continuing on, we arrived at Wulong Village. It's said this was the main filming location for the two films 'Story of Suppressing Bandits in Wulong Mountain' and 'Story of Suppressing Bandits in Xiangxi.' The village is over 300 meters high, surrounded by steep stone cliffs, with only a 1,000-meter-long path leading up to the top, with several natural checkpoints along the way. One section is less than 1 meter wide, only enough for one person. After crossing a horizontal path, you squeeze through a cave of jumbled rocks. The stone mountains on both sides form a narrow tunnel, 30 meters long, with a section only half a meter wide—a necessary passage to the village. It felt like anyone slightly plump or broad-shouldered would have to turn sideways to pass. I was carrying a big backpack and barely made it through without turning sideways. Near the top, between two mountains, there was a stone crack less than half a meter wide—the passage to the peak, with several-meter-high vertical stone walls beside it. These checkpoints truly had the advantage of 'one man guarding the pass, ten thousand cannot open it.' Thinking carefully, this was indeed a bandits' paradise—the mountains are high and the emperor is far away.
After passing through these steep and dangerous places, you arrive at the viewing platform, located on top of a towering stone pillar that pierces the clouds. You need to climb an iron ladder at about 75 degrees, but it seems very safe, with protective railings all around. Climbing up to Tianbo Mansion, dozens of stone walls come into view, standing relatively parallel to each other, varying in height, with a magnificent momentum. Personally, I think this is the most beautiful place in Zhangjiajie. After quietly enjoying the view for a while, I put on my backpack. Returning along the same path, I reached the fork where I had just gone to the One Step to Heaven and Sky Corridor attractions, and found it was only 15:10, so I decided to go see One Step to Heaven and Sky Corridor. First, you need to walk along a dirt path without stone steps to reach One Step to Heaven. One Step to Heaven is similar to the viewing platform at Tianbo Mansion just now—you also need to climb an iron ladder to reach the flat summit of a small peak. Not far from here are three stone peaks, one of which looks like a person holding a child, with the child rubbing its eyes with its hands (they say it's Zhu Bajie carrying his wife?), the middle one looks like a pair of lovers embracing, and the rightmost one looks like a wooden club. Guide Chen introduced that as the Olympic torch. He said that in 2008 the Olympic torch did not pass through Zhangjiajie, so the people of Zhangjiajie found their own torch. Coming down from One Step to Heaven and continuing forward, you need to wind down along a stone path for about 200 meters to reach the Sky Corridor. On one side are cliffs and precipices with no bottom in sight, and on the other side is the mountain body. Truly, infinite scenery lies on perilous peaks. After enjoying the view, we returned along the same path and went back to the inn to stay.
Day Seven: Daguantai, Helong Park
Getting up early, I found the fog was very heavy, with a fine drizzle too. I secretly thought this was bad and might affect the sightseeing. After breakfast at the guesthouse, we hiked another 15 minutes to the Daguantai three-way intersection (this is also a shuttle stop). Walking about 8 minutes to the right brings you to Daguantai. Along the way the fog was dense, with visibility of only 10 meters. Arriving at Daguantai, this was originally the only best angle in the entire scenic area for watching the sunrise, but now... beyond 10 meters it was all white fog. Sigh, helplessly we could only go to One Step Is Hard. To the left of Daguantai there is a small wooden house. Following the stone-slab path all the way down, there is a small shop, which probably because it was too early had not yet opened. Here, the right side leads to Immortal Bridge and Tianzi Seat, while going left leads to Divine Chicken Pecking and One Step Is Hard. Walking to One Step Is Hard, here a dangerous cliff is split apart, with two huge rocks emerging side by side. The front one is about 20 meters long and only 2 meters wide, making it an excellent viewing platform. The distance between the two rocks is not wide, about 1 meter. Guide Chen said that in 1995 a professor fell down and died, so now iron railings are laid between the two rocks and it is very safe. Standing on the iron railings and looking down, it is a bottomless abyss. Due to the weather, we did not go to Immortal Bridge and Tianzi Seat.
Returning to the Daguantai three-way intersection waiting point, we waited here for the eco-bus heading to Tianzi Mountain, and then arrived at Helong Park. Along the way we would pass Shentang Bay and Dianjiang Terrace. Because of the weather, we did not go; if the weather is good, everyone can take a look. Guide Chen said the scenery is good. Helong Park is a regular attraction for tour groups, and it was still crowded with visitors. We took a quick look at the bronze statue of Marshal Helong. Yubi Peak and Fairy Presenting Flowers could not be seen because of the fog either. Disappointed, we got on the eco-bus and went to the upper station of the Tianzi Mountain cableway. The cableway was 52 yuan per person. More than ten minutes later we arrived at Ten-Mile Gallery. I saw online that many people introduce this attraction as one of the essences of Zhangjiajie and something not to miss. Although it is called ten miles, only about five or six miles have been developed; the back part has not yet been fully developed. Many people were walking, but we chose to take the mini train, 23 yuan one way and 33 yuan round trip. Very few people took the mini train. The scenic spots are all on the left: 'Herb-Gathering Old Man,' 'Three Sisters,' 'Monkey King Calling,' and 'One-Finger Peak.' After the guide's introduction, these attractions were indeed remarkably lifelike.
After the visit, we went to the parking lot. A large bus could take us directly to Wulingyuan. There is no direct bus from Wulingyuan to Changde; you can only take a minibus first to Zhangjiajie and then transfer. Almost everyone in the minibus was local. Several women were chatting, and that local dialect was even more frightening in volume than people in other regions arguing. It could also be considered authentically local. From Zhangjiajie to Changde, the whole journey is expressway and costs 60 yuan. It was a two-and-a-half-hour air-conditioned bus ride.
We took a taxi to Changde Airport to buy tickets back to Kunming, but found the airport was off duty. The airport is twenty or thirty kilometers from the city, and tickets could only be bought in the city, so we returned along the same route. In any case, we first had to buy the tickets. Finally we arrived at the ticket hall. The airfare was 950 yuan. We really did not catch a Spring Airlines discount. Because the next day's flight was in the afternoon and we needed to take the airport bus, for convenience we chose to stay at the airport hotel, standard room 100 yuan. For dinner we went to McDonald's to comfort our stomachs, which had not eaten big chunks of meat for several days.
Day Eight: Changde, Yunnan
Even though we came to the legendary Peach Blossom Spring, we had no chance to visit it. I slept until after ten o'clock before waking up; I had watched TV too late last night. We wandered around the pedestrian street. The things sold on pedestrian streets all over China are probably the same. The six p.m. flight arrived on time, and we returned to Yunnan smoothly.