Zhangjiajie March Travel: The Editor Teaches You How to Play
In the warm spring month of March, it is still a bit chilly... This is the best time to travel, letting body and soul welcome the lush spring colors together. Seeing outdated Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang travel guides everywhere online, although many guide titles say things like the latest and most complete for 2010, the content is roughly the same. As a result, guests who have read those guides are completely confused when they come to Zhangjiajie to play and cannot tell north from south. I have specially written a detailed and accurate independent travel guide…
In the warm spring month of March, it's still a bit chilly... This is the best time for travel, letting both body and mind welcome the lush green of spring together.
Seeing outdated Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang travel guides everywhere online, although many are titled as the latest and most comprehensive for 2010, their content is largely the same. As a result, guests who have read those guides arrive in Zhangjiajie confused and unable to tell north from south. I have specially written a detailed and accurate self-guided travel guide to offer to backpackers visiting Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang.
(1) 2010 Zhangjiajie Travel Update Introduction:
1. On January 18, 2008, the new Zhangjiajie Railway Station was completed. Buses No. 5 and No. 6 go to the city center, arriving in about ten minutes, but beware of pickpockets on the bus.
2. The road from the airport to the city center has been repaired. During the day, you can take Bus No. 4 to the city center for one yuan per person, or take a taxi to the city center for about twenty yuan per car.
3. All blue minivans in Zhangjiajie have been replaced by taxis. The starting fare is 3 yuan, plus a 0.5 yuan fuel surcharge.
4. The bus fare from Zhangjiajie to Fenghuang has increased to 62 yuan per person. From Wulingyuan Scenic Area to Fenghuang, it is 72 yuan per person.
5. Flight schedules and train timetables have been updated. For details, please check online.
6. There is serious soliciting at the railway station and pickpocketing at the bus station, so take extra care.
7. The toll station from the city center to the scenic area has been removed. If you charter a taxi to the scenic area, it costs 80-100 yuan. Taking a bus from the bus station costs 10 yuan per person.
(2) 2010 Latest Fenghuang Guide:
1. Introduction to Fenghuang Ancient Town and Surrounding Attractions:
Fenghuang Ancient Town is located on the border of three provinces, 53 km from Jishou City. It has a history of over 1,000 years and many historical sites. From the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties to the end of the Republic of China, rulers of all dynasties not only appreciated its charming scenery but also knew it was the 'throat of Guizhou and Chu' and a strategic location, always listing it as a key border town. The ancient town is surrounded by green mountains and a winding river, preserving the architectural style of the Ming and Qing dynasties. It was once praised by the famous New Zealand writer Rewi Alley as the most beautiful small town in China. Its main ancient buildings include the City God Temple, Zhendao Government Office Confucian Temple, Heavenly King Temple, and the former residences of Xiong Xiling, Shen Congwen, and Huang Yongyu. Fenghuang has a long history and culture, with deep cultural resources. In early 2002, it was officially approved as a National Historical and Cultural City.
Attractions in and around Fenghuang include: Southern Great Wall, Huangsqiao, Qiliang Cave, Shen Congwen's Former Residence, Xiong Xiling's Former Residence, Yang Family Ancestral Hall, Tuojiang River Rafting, Zuolong Gorge, Wulong Mountain Scenic Area, Guantianshan Miao Village, Dehang Miao Village, Laodong Miao Village, Fenghuang Museum, Wanshou Palace, East Gate Tower, Hongqiao Wind and Rain Tower, etc.
2. How to Reach Fenghuang:
Fenghuang Ancient Town has no railway station, so generally you choose to transfer via Zhangjiajie, Jishou, Huaihua, Changsha, or Tongren, and you need to manage your time accordingly.
1. Zhangjiajie City Bus Station, Railway Station, Wulingyuan Bus Station:
From Zhangjiajie City to Fenghuang is very convenient. The city bus station now has three direct buses to Fenghuang daily: 8:30 AM, 2:30 PM, and 3:30 PM, arriving in Fenghuang in 4 hours, ticket price 62 yuan. The ride is very comfortable. The scenery along the way is also great. Returning from Fenghuang to Zhangjiajie is the same. Zhangjiajie Railway Station has many trains to Jishou daily, with ticket prices ranging from 10 to 25 yuan. After around 5 PM, there are several suitable trains, because Jishou Railway Station still has buses to Fenghuang Ancient Town at 9 PM every night. Wulingyuan Bus Station also has two direct buses to Fenghuang daily: 8:30 AM and 2:30 PM, arriving in Fenghuang in 5 hours, ticket price 72 yuan. After exiting the Wulingyuan标志门, go to the bus station to catch it; this bus passes through Zhangjiajie city center.
2. Getting off at Jishou Railway Station to Fenghuang is also convenient: There are usually soliciting cars at the railway station square to Fenghuang, 20 yuan per person, but these cars usually wait until full before departing. From 7 AM to 6 PM, it is recommended to take a taxi (5 yuan per car) from the railway station to Jishou South Bus Station to take an air-conditioned shuttle to Fenghuang, departing every 20 minutes, 15 yuan per person. It is 52 km on National Highway 209, arriving in Fenghuang in 90 minutes, with good road conditions.
3. Getting off at Huaihua Railway Station to Fenghuang: Exit the railway station and take a taxi (5 yuan per car) to Huaihua West Bus Station. There are shuttle buses from the West Station to Fenghuang, 32 yuan per person. It is 92 km on National Highway 209, arriving in Fenghuang in two and a half hours. However, the departure time from Huaihua seems unreliable, tending to depart only when full. You can also choose a bus to Mayang, then transfer to Fenghuang, where there are more buses.
4. From Changsha, it is recommended to take a bus directly to Fenghuang, a 5-hour journey. The Changsha to Jishou section is all on the highway, ticket price 130 yuan. Buses from Changsha to Fenghuang depart at 8:30 AM every day, and then every 2-3 hours. If taking the train, you need to go to Jishou first and then transfer to Fenghuang, taking 7-8 hours.
5. Tongren in Guizhou and Daxing Airport are 30 km from Fenghuang, a 1.5-hour drive. There are buses at Tongren Bus Station, priced at 20 yuan per person. You can also charter a car, generally costing around 120 yuan per trip.
6. After arriving at Fenghuang Bus Station, spend 3 yuan to take a taxi to Hongqiao and get off to reach Tuojiang Town. Fenghuang county town is very small, generally no need to take a car. Green taxis start at 2.5 yuan, and environmentally friendly battery cars cost 1 yuan per person.
3. Accommodation in Fenghuang:
There are many inns in Fenghuang. Staying in a guesthouse by the Tuojiang River is ideal, preferably one facing the river, so you can open the window and see the tranquil Tuojiang River. However, riverside guesthouses are relatively more expensive. As soon as you arrive at Hongqiao, you will see riverside guesthouses everywhere along the Tuojiang River. In the off-season, you don't need to worry about accommodation at all; you can choose freely until satisfied, generally 30-80 yuan per person. During Golden Week, it is more expensive, around 200-300 yuan per person, and it is not easy to book a room. Also, accommodation prices in Fenghuang sometimes slightly increase on Fridays and Saturdays.
Here I recommend a few guesthouses:
1. Diaojiaolou Guesthouse, No. 1 Dongmenwai, Fenghuang County. They can also buy train tickets for you.
2. Tuojiang Renjia Guesthouse, adjacent to Huang Yongyu's studio, located by Duocui Tower downstream of Hongqiao. Because it has a protruding balcony facing Hongqiao and overlooking Huilong Pond, it is an excellent spot to view Hongqiao and Duocui Tower. 20 yuan per person (30-40 yuan per person in peak season), private bathroom with 24-hour hot water (gas water heater). Owner Bao Zhongwen, No. 13 Huilongge, phone: 0743-3224558.
3. Jinluomen Mountain Villa, a guesthouse with ancient architectural stilted style, nestled by mountains and water, located near the North Gate Jumping Rock (about 30 meters), a landmark attraction in Fenghuang. Phone: 0743-3228364.
4. Qingke Guesthouse, Rear Building, No. 49 Huilongge, Fenghuang County. Phone: 0743-3223877.
5. Linjiang Xiaoxi Guesthouse, phone: 0743-3227210.
6. Huarui Hotel, Jiangnan East Road, Fenghuang County. Phone: 0743-3223651.
7. Yingxi Tower, No. 24 Shawan by the Tuojiang River, Fenghuang County. Phone: 0743-3261356.
8. Anranju Guesthouse, Jiangnan East Road, Tuojiang Town, Fenghuang County. Phone: 0743-3228341.
9. Aqian Xiaolou, No. 88 Laoyingshao, phone: 13974306715.
10. Wangjianglou Guesthouse, No. 30 Beibian Street, phone: 0743-3224363.
Also, generally no need to tell the guesthouse owner where you want to go; some owners will ask guests all day about where they want to travel, to avoid being pestered and followed.
It should be pointed out that these private hotels mostly pay only symbolic taxes and basically have no business licenses. So if something goes wrong, there might be a repeat of the 'Fengyulou Wailou Guesthouse' incident. Of course, most hotel owners in Fenghuang are good and don't want trouble, but we should always be careful wherever we go, keeping valuables secure or handing them to the innkeeper for safekeeping.
4. Eating in Fenghuang:
Overall, eating in Fenghuang is truly good and cheap. Vegetarian dishes 3-6 yuan, meat dishes 6-15 yuan, tangyuan (glutinous rice balls) 1 yuan per bowl (over 20 pieces), canned mushroom stir-fried pork (10 yuan), blood duck (20-40 yuan), sour fish soup, etc., are relatively famous dishes. Snacks include ice rice shrimp (1 yuan), liangfen (0.5-1 yuan), fried crayfish (1 yuan each), Miao pickles (1 yuan), etc., all with distinctive local flavors. In summer, you can also try the ice tangyuan (0.5-1 yuan per bowl), sweet and sour, very delicious.
Fenghuang's specialty dishes include blood duck, fern, twice-cooked pork, sour soup fish, canned mushrooms, tofu dregs, sour vegetable soup, generous portions and tasty and cheap.
Fenghuang Ambassador Restaurant: Located outside the West Gate of Fenghuang Ancient Town, after the city gate, at a three-way intersection, turn left and walk 100 meters to reach the most famous restaurant in Fenghuang—Fenghuang Ambassador Restaurant. It is named because Huang Yongyu once hosted the German ambassador here! If you haven't seen it, you might think the Ambassador Restaurant is a high-end place, but the famous Ambassador Restaurant is not as magnificent as imagined, and can even be said to be a bit shabby. Only the plaque inscribed by Huang Yongyu at the entrance confirms its identity! The prices here are much cheaper than inside the ancient town! Stir-fried shredded radish vegetarian dish 5 yuan for a large plate; sour fish soup 15 yuan for a large bowl, with plenty of catfish.
Fenghuang BBQ Street: There are two BBQ streets in Fenghuang. One is the street by the Great Wall Hotel at the head of Hongqiao. The other is the street at the entrance of Tianxia Fenghuang (New Road Night Market BBQ Street). The most distinctive BBQ in Fenghuang is beef skewers, one mao per skewer (small portion), and many fried skewers, including fish, crab, etc., from five mao to one yuan each. As long as you're not afraid of spicy, there are all kinds of BBQ, fermented rice tangyuan, wontons, dumplings, hot pot, everything. Lamb skewers 5 yuan for 50 skewers, but don't be fooled by the 50 skewers; they are very small and can be finished easily. Fermented rice tangyuan one yuan per bowl, sesame filling, delicious. Wontons two yuan, like Shanghai small wontons, but with less meat. This place operates regardless of weather (plastic sheets are put up when it rains).
5. Sightseeing in Fenghuang:
Two days in Fenghuang is enough. One day can be spent in the ancient town, and one day for visiting Miao villages. Of course, if you are not in a hurry, you can also spend some time visiting nearby Miao markets. The ancient town is not large; if you walk all of it, it takes less than two hours to cover its streets and alleys, but truly experiencing it depends on your perspective.
The night view of Fenghuang is quite worth seeing. There are original ecological bonfire parties, river lanterns, and a bar street by the Tuojiang River, which is a great place to go!
The nine major attractions in the town (Shen Congwen's Former Residence, Xiong Xiling's Former Residence, Yang Family Ancestral Hall, Tuojiang River Rafting, East Gate Tower, Hongqiao Wind and Rain Tower, Wanshou Palace, Chongde Hall, Fenghuang Museum combined ticket 148 yuan). The stilted buildings on both sides of the Tuojiang River, Hongqiao, Wanming Tower, Jumping Rock, North Gate Tower are free. It is recommended not to visit the nine attractions, as they are not worth seeing, and to see one, you have to buy a package with the other eight. Also, a little secret: if you don't want to buy the combined ticket but still want to raft, you can go to Shen Congwen's tomb and take some private boats.
There are two Jumping Rocks on the Tuojiang River. One is made of stone pillars, in two rows, one high and one low, each pillar about 50 cm apart, somewhat like plum blossom stakes, with carved tops to prevent slipping. The other is paved with wooden planks, with pillars possibly 3-4 meters apart. I actually think this one is a bit unstable, as some planks sink when stepped on.
By the river, especially in the early morning, many women wash clothes, each with a wooden paddle, the 'pah pah' sound continuous. This is the best time for photography enthusiasts to shoot. But be mindful of boundaries and not get too close.
Karst Cave Wonder—Qiliang Cave (60 yuan). Take a minibus from Fenghuang Bus Station (2 yuan per person). For farther attractions like Southern Great Wall (45 yuan), Huangsqiao Ancient Town (20 yuan), etc., you can take a minibus. To Southern Great Wall and Huangsqiao Ancient Town, take a minibus to Alaying, 3-4 yuan to Southern Great Wall (about 30 minutes); from Southern Great Wall, take a minibus to Alaying for 2 yuan (20 minutes), then a three-wheeled motorcycle (2 yuan) to Huangsqiao Ancient Town.
There are many Miao villages in Fenghuang. Currently developed ones include Guantianshan Miao Village, Goulang Miao Village, Duluo Village, Laodong Miao Village, Yanbanyan Miao Village, Chaping Miao Village, Laojia Village, Shanjiang Miao Village, etc. Among them, Laodong Miao Village is relatively good, being the latest developed. To go there, you can join a one-day tour of Wulong Mountain and Laodong Miao Village, currently around 100 yuan. Here is the one-day itinerary:
Depart at 8:30 AM, drive to Wulong Mountain, Miao market, where Miao girls and boys pull clothes and step on toes to find partners.
Visit the most legendary mountain range in Xiangxi—Wulong Mountain. Here is Niuguang Miao Village, which was robbed by bandits eighteen times in forty years; here is the site of the former bandit suppression headquarters of the 47th Army of the Chinese People's Liberation Army; here is Camel Peak of Wulong Mountain, resembling the擎天 stone pillar of Zhangjiajie; here is the Wuchao River Grand Canyon at the junction of Guizhou, Sichuan, and Hunan provinces; here is the birthplace of the well-known 'Wulong Mountain Bandit Suppression'.
At noon, taste the farmhouse specialty meal that Miao people serve to distinguished guests.
Cross the natural stone cave crafted by nature and enter Laodong Miao Village. You will hear gongs and drums, and the sound of sheng songs, as the enthusiastic villagers sing welcome songs. Taste the welcome wine, visit the ancient and unique stone-style architecture listed as a historical and cultural village, and watch interactive programs arranged by the Miao village for you.
Market days: Market schedule (lunar calendar):
Liaojiaqiao: Market on days 3 and 8, fare 1 yuan.
Alaying: Market on days 2 and 7, fare 3 yuan. The largest market in the county, near the famous Huangsqiao Ancient Town and the newly discovered Southern Great Wall ruins.
Jixin: Market on days 5 and 10, fare 3 yuan. The second largest market in the county, with convenient transportation, Jifeng Highway runs through it.
Shanjiang: Market on days 3 and 8, fare 3 yuan.
Note: For more Fenghuang self-guided travel information, you can consult us. Phone: 13574488466, club website: We warmly help all guests near and far.
6. Shopping in Fenghuang:
The most famous in Fenghuang is ginger candy, especially from the four century-old famous shops: Zhang, Liu, Xiong, and Jia. Among them, Zhang is the most renowned! The Zhang ginger candy old shop is located at No. 12 Zhongying Street in the ancient town, adjacent to Shen Congwen's Former Residence. After reaching Shen Congwen's Former Residence, go forward 10 meters and turn the corner to arrive.
Ginger candy is not only delicious but also nutritious, especially suitable for resisting cold and preventing colds. The ancients left a dietary proverb: 'Women should not go three days without lotus root, men should not go three days without ginger; eat a slice of ginger in the morning, better than ginseng soup; often eat radish and ginger, no need for a doctor's prescription.' Ginger candy is not as cloyingly sweet as candy, nor as overpoweringly spicy as ginger. The slight sweetness and just-right spiciness leave a lingering fragrance and long aftertaste. With exquisite packaging nowadays, it is also a great gift. If using tin foil packaging, the shelf life is four months; small packaging (four small bags) 5 yuan per bag; gift box large packaging (40 small bags) 58 yuan per box.
Fenghuang batik: Miao batik has a long history, dating back to ancient times, and its artistic products are renowned in the dyeing and weaving art world. Most finished products have a dark blue background with white patterns, clean and clear, simple and elegant. They showcase the rich and colorful ethnic culture and folk craft art skills of the Miao people. A piece is about 20 yuan; batik homespun cloth, where craftsmen draw patterns with wax on homespun cloth, colors limited to white and blue, a small piece about 20-40 yuan; popular summer batik T-shirts with Fenghuang characteristics (15-20 yuan each); works by folk craft masters have higher collection and artistic value, more expensive (400-800 yuan per piece). The batik works of masters Xiong Chengzao and Liu Dapao are highly accomplished.
Fenghuang tie-dye: Tie-dye is actually an ancient resist-dyeing technique. The dyes used are the same as batik, but the tie-dye method is more vivid. The fabric is not coated with wax but tied with ropes to bind part of the fabric. The tied part is not put into the dye, while the rest forms a color consistent with the dye. The tied part also forms a color transition due to liquid penetration. Since the dyeing uses indigo and other natural plants, it is harmless to human skin. Such as headscarves (3-10 yuan each), larger tie-dye square cloth (50-70 yuan).
Miao silver jewelry: There are many types, but from the wearing parts, they can be broadly divided into headwear, chestwear, and backwear. Headwear includes silver hats, silver basins, phoenix crowns, Sushan, hairpins, earrings, necklaces, etc.; chestwear includes chest chains, needle tubes, aprons, plus bracelets, rings, etc., and shawls, belts, etc. Miao silver jewelry mostly retains primitive charm, and many shapes reflect the beliefs and life customs of the Miao people.
Silver jewelry sold in Fenghuang Ancient Town is divided into old silver and new silver. Old silver is collected from folk, passed down from generation to generation, with a longer usage history, good collection value and appreciation potential, generally very expensive. Moreover, because such silverware is very rare, it is generally hard to buy genuine ones. If you are not very knowledgeable, it is recommended not to buy the so-called old silver sold on the market. New silver is processed with both ethnic characteristics and modern fashion. According to standard silver content, style, and workmanship, it is generally priced per piece or per gram. Prices by silver content are 8 yuan, 10 yuan, 15 yuan per gram, etc. Priced per piece, 15-60 yuan each. Generally, per-piece pricing offers better value.
There are also some folk crafts, such as folk paper-cutting (there is an old paper-cutting artist next to Hongqiao) works, priced according to the complexity of the pattern (2 yuan, 3 yuan, 5 yuan, etc.). Woven flower belts, narrower machine-woven 5-7 yuan, hand-woven 15-20 yuan; wider machine-woven 10-15 yuan, hand-woven 25-40 yuan.
Strolling through the ancient town, it seems like entering an art palace, not only for the antique folk architecture and unique folk customs, but also for the ethnic crafts with strong local characteristics and high appreciation value, making one marvel at the wonder of this land.
7. Fenghuang Travel Tips:
1. Do not enter someone's home with an open umbrella.
2. Do not step on others' thresholds casually.
3. When visiting others' homes, men and women cannot stay in the same room.
4. When visiting a Miao family, do not step on their tripod, and do not sit in the main seat facing the shrine.
5. In Miao villages, try not to get too close to married women.
6. In Miao and Tujia villages, do not whistle casually (it summons ghosts).