Eighteen Classic Quotes on a Trip to Fenghuang, Western Hunan
1. Before going to Fenghuang, it's best to do a little cultural homework. Here are some keywords: Shen Congwen, Huang Yongyu, Border Town, Cuicui, Miao ethnic group, Tuo River, stilted houses. 2. People will often tell you: two days in Fenghuang is enough. They're not lying, but I'll tell you that even a week may not feel like enough. So, how many days to spend in Fenghuang...
This article is compiled from the original travel notes on the "Zhangjiajie Tour Guide Network" (33519.com); it is a record of trips from earlier years. Time-sensitive information such as ticket prices, schedules, and accommodation prices is subject to the latest announcements from scenic areas and transportation authorities; the itinerary ideas and attraction introductions still have reference value.
1. Before going to Fenghuang, it is best to do some simple cultural homework. Here are a few keywords for you: Shen Congwen, Huang Yongyu, Border Town, Cuicui, Miao ethnic group, Tuojiang River, stilted houses.
2. Generally someone will tell you: two days in Fenghuang is enough. They are not lying to you, but what I want to tell you is that even a week may not feel like enough. So how many days to spend in Fenghuang depends on your personality, time, budget, and many other factors. Fenghuang is worth staying in calmly for some people; it really is a small town where time and life can slow down.
3. The best time to go to Fenghuang is during Siyueba (the Miao ancestor worship festival), May 5th (Dragon Boat Festival dragon boat races), and June 6th (traditional Miao song festival). I advise you not to come during the May 1st and October 1st Golden Weeks—that is purely coming to throw away gold and suffer.
4. Departing from Beijing, there is only one train that can get there, K268 (Beijing West-Jishou). Sleeper prices are 355 yuan (upper berth)-379 yuan (lower berth), departing at 10:35 on the first day and arriving at 12:20 the next day. Get off at Jishou, take a 3-yuan taxi to the South Bus Station, then a 14-yuan bus to Fenghuang. If you are lucky, you can share a taxi directly to Fenghuang Ancient City for about 100 yuan.
5. Fenghuang has many inns, basically family-run hotels, with varying living conditions. If it is not peak season, there is no need to book in advance; it is best to inspect on site after arriving. If you have plenty of time to stay, you can consider staying by the river for the first few days and then in quiet streets inside the ancient city for the remaining days. If time is short, just stay by the river; there are cheap ones too. Based on my personal experience, I recommend two here: Wangjianglou Inn, right near the North Gate by the river, scenery 75 points, convenience 85 points, accommodation conditions 70 points, owner friendliness 85 points. There are several restaurants right beside it, all with river views, and not expensive; Jiandaoping Hotel, inside the ancient city near the North Gate, quietness 90 points, convenience 85 points, accommodation conditions 85 points, owner friendliness 95 points (especially worth mentioning is that the owner has a fairly high chance of getting return train tickets; she has relatives at the train station). There is a pickled vegetable shop next to it that is worth recommending.
6. The combined ticket price for several major attractions in the ancient city is 138 yuan. I think there is really no need to spend this money. Former residences, ancestral halls, and so on—this is not your first time seeing them, right? Unless you are especially fond of this. Save this money, and I will teach you how to play.
7. One item included in the combined ticket is "Tuojiang River boating." Even without buying the combined ticket, you can still enjoy boating on the Tuojiang River! The only difference is that the former boats on the upper reaches, while the latter boats on the middle and lower reaches. The latter costs only 10-15 yuan per person, the boating distance is much longer, and the scenery is also good. The scenery of the upper reaches can be fully experienced by walking along the riverbank; there is no need to view it from a boat. (Explanation: the upper reaches are monopolized by tourist attractions, while the boats in the middle and lower reaches are all local people's; they make a living from this, there are many boats, and the price can be negotiated.)
8. There are many Miao villages around Fenghuang, such as Goulang, Laodong, Shanjiang, Yanbanyan, and so on. Each has its own merits and its own title—either the oldest, or the most authentic, or the largest, or the closest. It doesn't really matter; just follow your instincts. But basically you have to join a tour group for a day trip, because transportation isn't very convenient (many Miao villages only got roads and electricity in recent years). I went to Laodong Miao Village. The day trip was quite rich, and the free lunch was pretty good. The group tour fee was 70 yuan per person.
9. The restaurants here are basically all similar. Don't expect the storefronts to look very satisfying, because they're all quite down-to-earth. The only one I don't recommend is the restaurants in the stilted houses by the river—way too expensive (I heard). I didn't dare try. If you insist on dining with a river view, you can try a few restaurants on the west side inside the North Gate. Not expensive, all have second floors, and the river views are nice both day and night. The food is tasty too. The only restaurant I recommend is: Ambassador Restaurant. Don't think it's Western food, don't think it's very expensive, and don't think the decor is unconventional. Its only distinction is: Huang Yongyu once treated an ambassador to a meal here, and the name 'Ambassador Restaurant' was also bestowed by Mr. Huang. Since it has some fame, I'll recommend it. That's what 'having been here' means, after all.
10. The specialty dishes here are: blood cake duck (about 25-45 yuan), sour pickled fish, and tofu cooked in sour soup. There are many other dishes too, all good. People who like Hunan cuisine should really enjoy the flavors here. A friendly tip: don't casually try the glutinous rice sour fish—the fish is too salty. If you want to take on the challenge, be mentally prepared.
11. After you get used to the food inside the old town, consider eating outside the West Gate, or try the snacks on the south side of Hong Bridge—there are countless stalls, quite a spectacle.
12. During the day the bars are relatively quiet. At night, the bars by the river get much livelier, especially the ones near the North Gate. Everyone can find the lively places, but quiet bars are hard to find. So let me advertise three bars—that's only fair: On the east side of the North Gate, on the right bank of the Tuo River, there's a place called 'Koala Cabin.' It has magazines, music, internet, coffee, tea, and snacks. Right beneath your feet flows the Tuo River. This bank is absolutely quiet, while the opposite bank is absolutely lively. Another bar is near the Ten Thousand Names Pagoda, called 'Bianke' Bingo. It has a courtyard and a second-floor loft, a cat and a dog, countless magazines and even more DVDs, coffee and pizza. Other people's stories are happening there, and yours will join in too. The third bar is by Hong Bridge, newly opened, called 'Base Camp.' The owner is from Shanghai. Two floors, live music, and lovely, simple Xiangxi waitstaff.
13. When you come to Fenghuang, you can't help but bring back some specialties. First, something different from what others mention: buy a Fenghuang mascot called 'Chengcheng.' It's a cute phoenix, only launched in May 2007, sold exclusively at a shop on the commercial street east of the North Gate. Other specialties include silver jewelry (basically 10 yuan per gram), belts with ethnic features, bracelets, twisted candy, ginger candy, kiwi slices, pickles, rice wine, and so on. For these, refer to others' experiences. Actually, just shop around and compare—you'll figure it out.
14. When you have nothing to do, just walk and sit by the river more. The Miao girls singing folk songs might just start belting it out on a boat. If you're lucky, there might even be girls dancing while beating drums—so graceful.
15. At night by the river, there's a year-round activity that never fades: releasing wishing boats. Spend a few yuan, buy a bunch of paper boats, light the candles on them, silently make a wish, devoutly send the boats onto the water, watch them drift farther and farther away, and pray they get closer and closer to your wish.
16. If you want to see some of the scenes from postcards, I advise you to sacrifice one comfortable sleep and get up early once. In summer, get up at 6 a.m. The river surface and the mountains are draped in a layer of mist, sunlight flickering in and out. The light falls on the stilted houses, the small boats, the Ten Thousand Names Pagoda, and Hong Bridge—all incredibly charming. Especially, be sure to linger a while on the stepping stones or the jumping stones outside the North Gate. Besides letting you capture some shots, it's best to also put down your camera and properly enjoy the scenery.
17. Buy a postcard and send it to friends and family, inviting everyone to come travel here. This place is China's next famous Lijiang or Yangshuo. Although a Singaporean traveler has already said, 'Fenghuang is one of the two most beautiful small towns in China,' come visit before Fenghuang becomes too commercialized.
18. A friendly tip: Fenghuang falls asleep after 2 a.m.; Fenghuang wakes up at 5:30 a.m. If you don't get enough sleep, bring enough coffee—Nescafé.