Zhangjiajie Independent Travel Guide
To make it easy for backpackers to happily travel in Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang and gain an in-depth understanding of Zhangjiajie, I have combined materials collected online with years of accumulated experience as an independent travel guide into the following guide, and hereby present it! Zhangjiajie Independent Travel Guide Part One: How to get to Zhangjiajie? 1. By plane: At present, 24 cities nationwide have direct flights to Zhangjiajie, but apart from Beijing, Chengdu, Changsha, Guangzhou, Shenzhen...
To make it easy for fellow travelers to happily visit Zhangjiajie and Fenghuang and gain an in-depth understanding of Zhangjiajie, I have combined information gathered online with years of accumulated self-guided travel guide experience into the following guide, specially presented here!
Zhangjiajie Self-Guided Travel Guide Part One: How to Get to Zhangjiajie?
1. By Air:
Currently, 24 cities across the country have direct flights to Zhangjiajie, but aside from Beijing, Chengdu, Changsha, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen, other cities do not have daily flights. Since airline schedules change frequently, please refer to the flight availability shown on the local ticket office's computer.
Friends from North China coming to Zhangjiajie need to use Beijing as the departure city, then fly directly to Zhangjiajie. Beijing has flights to Zhangjiajie on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday; Tianjin and Xi'an have Okay Airways charter flights to Zhangjiajie during the peak tourism season from March to November, and other cities such as Zhengzhou sometimes also have direct charter flights to Zhangjiajie during very busy periods like July and August.
Friends from East China coming to Zhangjiajie: Shanghai has year-round flights to Zhangjiajie, Nanjing and Hangzhou have charter or regular flights to Zhangjiajie every year during the peak tourism season from March to November, and Wuxi, Xuzhou, and other places sometimes also have direct charter flights to Zhangjiajie during the very busy July-August period.
Friends from South China coming to Zhangjiajie can choose Guangzhou as the departure city, which has year-round flights to Zhangjiajie, and Shenzhen frequently has direct flights to Zhangjiajie during the peak tourism season from March to November.
If there are no direct flights to Zhangjiajie from nearby cities, you can also choose to fly to Changsha first, then take a bus (3.5 hours), train (5 hours), or plane (35 minutes) from Changsha to Zhangjiajie, and then begin your trip.
2. By Train:
Zhangjiajie Railway Station has passenger train connections with more than 10 large and medium-sized cities in China. Zhangjiajie Railway Station has direct trains to Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and other cities; trains from Zhangjiajie to Guangzhou, Changsha, Zhanjiang, and other cities all depart from Zhangjiajie as the originating station, making them convenient to take.
Northeast direction: You can take T72, T48, T18, T227/T226 directly to Beijing, then transfer to train K267 directly to Zhangjiajie; or take T238/T235 to Changsha, then transfer from Changsha to N726/N728, N733/N736, N710/N711, N702/N704, K91/K94, all of which can reach Zhangjiajie. Warm reminder: During Golden Week, friends from the above directions who want to buy return tickets should best buy them in advance, because getting tickets on short notice in Zhangjiajie is very difficult.
Southeast direction: Friends from Shanghai, Wuxi, Nanjing, and other places can take train K533 and get off at Zhangjiajie; friends from Guangzhou, Shenzhen, and other directions can take trains N702/N704 and N710/N711 and get off at Zhangjiajie; friends from Hubei direction can take trains 2159 and 1473 and get off at Zhangjiajie; friends from Guangxi direction can take train 2012 to reach Zhangjiajie; friends from Changsha, Zhuzhou, Xiangtan, and other areas of Hunan can take N733 directly to Zhangjiajie, and friends from Chenzhou, Hengyang, Changsha, Yiyang, Changde, and other areas can take N726 directly to Zhangjiajie.
3. Self-Driving:
1). Guangzhou direction: Guangzhou—(Beijing-Zhuhai Expressway→Changsha—(Changchang Expressway→Changde—(Expressway→Zhangjiajie
2). Changsha direction: Changsha (Changchang Expressway——Changde (Changzhang Expressway→Zhangjiajie 〈takes only a little over 3 hours to Zhangjiajie〉
3). Wuhan direction: Wuhan—(Hanyi Expressway——Jingzhou—(National Highway——Gong'an—(National Highway→Lixian County, Hunan—(Provincial Highway——Shimen—(Provincial Highway
→Cili County—(Changzhang Expressway)→Zhangjiajie
4). East China direction
1. Shanghai—→Nanjing—→ Hefei —→Qianshan—→Huangmei—→Huangshi—→Wuhan—→Jingzhou—Gong'an—→Lixian, Hunan—→Shimen
—→ Cili County—(Changzhang Expressway→Zhangjiajie
2..Shanghai—→Hangzhou—→Jinhua—→Quzhou—→ Nanchang —→Zhuzhou—→Changsha—(Changchang Expressway→Changde—(Changzhang Expressway→Zhang
jiajie
5). Beijing direction: Beijing—(Jingzhu Expressway→Wuhan—(Hanyi Expressway→Jingzhou—(National Highway→Gong'an—(National Highway→Lixian County, Hunan—(Provincial Highway →
Shimen County—(Provincial Highway→Cili County—(Changzhang Expressway)→Zhangjiajie). Nanchang direction: Nanchang—(National Highway 207→Zhuzhou—(Expressway→Changsha—(Express
way→Changde—(Changzhang Expressway→Zhangjiajie
7). Hefei direction: Hefei—→Wuhan—→Jingzhou—(National Highway→Gong'an—((National Highway→Lixian County, Hunan—(Provincial Highway→Shimen —(Provincial Highway→Cili
County—(Changzhang Expressway→Zhangjiajie
8. Zhengzhou direction: Zhengzhou—(Expressway→Wuhan—(Expressway→Jingzhou—(National Highway→Gong'an—(National Highway→Lixian County, Hunan—(Provincial Highway→Shimen— (Provincial
Highway→Cili County—(Changzhang Expressway→Zhangjiajie
9. Jinan direction: Jinan—→Handan—(Expressway→Wuhan—→Jingzhou—(National Highway→Gong'an—(National Highway→ Lixian County, Hunan—(Provincial Highway→Shimen
—(Provincial Highway→Cili County—(Changzhang Expressway→Zhangjiajie
10. Chongqing direction: Chongqing—→Fuling—→Wulong—→Pengshui—→Qianjiang—→Xianfeng—→Longshan, Hunan—→Yongshun—Zhangjiajie
Zhangjiajie Independent Travel Guide Part Two: How to get to the scenic area from downtown Zhangjiajie?
1. Railway Station
Zhangjiajie Railway Station officially relocated on January 18, 2008. The new station is located in Guanliping, Zhangjiajie. The old station will be converted into a freight
station and will no longer handle passenger service. The new Zhangjiajie Railway Station is closer to the city center and more convenient. The new Zhangjiajie Railway Station is now built at the foot of Tianmen Mountain
. After getting off the train, there is a station square at the bottom, where many people will enthusiastically recommend multi-day tours of Zhangjiajie. Do not pay attention to them. Because many
people without tourism reception qualifications may be engaged in illegal tourism reception at the station under the guise of ××× legitimate travel agencies. Tourists should not easily trust them
. At this time, the best approach is to head straight to the large square on the left outside the exit. The square has direct buses to the city center. Bus routes 2 and 7 both cost 1
RMB per person to the city center. You can also choose to take a taxi (starting fare 4 RMB), then transfer at the bus station to a bus heading to the Zhangjiajie scenic area. The one to Forest Park is 10
RMB per person and takes about 45 minutes; the one to Wulingyuan is 12 RMB per person and also takes about 45 minutes; after arriving at Wulingyuan, take a taxi for a few RMB to
the Sign Gate (that is, the ticket gate), or take Bus Route 3 to the Sign Gate as well.
2. Airport:
After getting off the plane, there is Bus Route 4 outside the airport to the city center, 1 RMB per person, but there are not many departures. (8:00—18:00); taking a taxi to the city
center costs between 15—30 RMB. If you want to get it done for 15 RMB, the best way is to turn right after exiting the airport gate and walk 400 meters to outside the airport main gate, where there will be many taxis
, and that one only costs 15 RMB. The 30 RMB ones inside the airport are because they have to pay parking fees, so they are twice as expensive! Then it will depend on your bargaining skills
!
3. Bus Station:
Zhangjiajie Self-Guided Travel Guide Part Three:
Eating, Accommodation, Transportation, Activities, and Shopping in Zhangjiajie:
1. Eating in Zhangjiajie:
In Zhangjiajie's city proper, there is plenty of good food. Spicy! That is the hallmark of Hunan cuisine, and Tujia cuisine is no exception. Besides spiciness, the Tujia people are especially fond of smoked, sour, and pickled foods, which have a unique flavor—definitely worth a try. The first recommendation is Zhangjiajie's signature dish—Sanxiaguo (Three Ingredients in One Pot). The so-called Sanxiaguo is actually a very convenient dry pot made from three main ingredients, a hot pot stewed without broth. "Master Hu's Sanxiaguo" is very representative; Sanxiaguo costs 40 RMB per pot, and the portion is generous—you're guaranteed to eat your fill and eat well! The recommended combination is dry-fried intestines, dry-fried walnut meat, and Xiangxi cured meat stewed together. While eating, you can also order a portion of pickled radish—crisp and sour. Truly superb!
You can also eat wild game, for those with deep pockets looking to indulge. "Wuwei Restaurant" has a distinctive name—called "Wuwei" (No Flavor), yet the food is actually very flavorful: wild boar, bamboo rat, muntjac meat, cured meat, and more. Recommended local specialties: huangzi meat and Miao-style sour meat. Heizhugou wild mushrooms and fresh mushrooms of all kinds will dazzle your eyes;
Dining inside the Zhangjiajie scenic area is very expensive, because the mountains are high and all food must be carried or shouldered up by villagers, so the cost is relatively high. Meat dishes start at 30 RMB per portion, game dishes at 80 RMB and up—including wild boar, muntjac, bamboo partridge, pine mushrooms, wild wood ear, etc.—and vegetables start at 15 RMB. Once you get into the city, it's very cheap; at night the streets are full of food stalls, and 50 RMB can feed four people very well. Tujia-style specialty foods include smoked game, blood tofu, New Year reunion dishes, community rice, sour fish, Hezha (ground bean curd), and fried wild bee larvae and pupae. It's recommended to try the uniquely flavored Tujia hot pot and Tujia snacks—there's kudzu powder, rice wine, liangfen (cold jelly), baba (rice cakes), and more, all inexpensive, so be sure to give them a try.
In addition, inside the Zhangjiajie scenic area you can eat sweet, delicious corn on the cob and wild kiwi fruit that are hard to find in big cities.
If you want to taste authentic smoked cured meat, you really have to eat it inside the Zhangjiajie scenic area. In the small restaurants run by locals in the scenic area, you can eat aromatic cured meat charred black by charcoal fire—you just need to wash off the outer layer. This kind of cured meat cannot be found in the city; it is slowly smoked over farmhouse stoves.
If you want to chat or sample Tujia food and drink, you can also go to the night market next to the commercial building, pick a spot where there are lots of people, order some barbecue and some vegetarian dishes. Outside the wind is chilly, inside it's steaming hot—a distinctive experience!
Zhangjiajie's local specialties are especially famous for kiwi fruit, Qingyan Mingcui tea, lobster flower tea, and pine mushrooms, all with their original fresh flavors. You can also buy some Tujia-style "Tujia Mei La La" series foods to take home.
2. How to Arrange Accommodation:
Zhangjiajie's main hotel accommodation areas are distributed across three major zones: Zhangjiajie city proper, Wulingyuan District (Suoxiyu), and the exit of the Forest Park;
farmhouse stays are mainly distributed in Yangjiajie Wulong Village, and secondly in Yuanjiajie and the Tianzi Mountain scenic area.
Zhangjiajie City Proper Hotel Accommodation:
Based on 2008 data, the best hotel in the city proper is currently Zhangjiajie Huatian Hotel under the Huatian Group, equivalent to a five-star hotel, with group-booking prices at around 380 per room. For four-star, Zhangjiajie Tongda International Hotel and Lantian International Hotel are recommended—relatively new renovations, with group-booking prices at around 240–340 per room, depending on the season. There are many three-star choices. If you are arriving at Zhangjiajie Airport on a very late flight, Zhangjiajie Tianmen Mountain Hotel is a good choice, with group-booking prices not exceeding 200 per room. If you want to choose a hotel in the city center, it's recommended to stay at Wuling International Hotel, which is convenient to get anywhere from. As for two-star hotels and family inns at around 100 per room, there are even more choices, so I won't describe them in detail.
Zhangjiajie Scenic Area—Wulingyuan Hotel Accommodation:
Currently the best hotel is the foreign-funded hotel under the Best Western Group—Wulingyuan Holiday Hotel. It is said to be ultra-five-star luxury level, and with its good location in the core area of the scenic spot, group-booking prices exceed 800 RMB per room. For four-star, you can choose Kaitian International Hotel or Huangchao International, generally around 300 RMB per room. For three-star hotels, you can choose Gangyuan Hotel or Yunhai Hotel, also around 200 per room, all including breakfast. Budget hotels are similar in price, ranging from 60–100 per room.
Accommodation at Zhangjiajie Forest Park: The best option is the Xiangdian Villa under the Hunan Electric Power System, a four-star hotel and a member of the world Golden Keys hotel organization, at about 380 RMB per room including buffet breakfast. Among three-star hotels, Honghegu Hotel and Yalin Hotel are both good choices, generally around 200 RMB per room.
3. Getting around Zhangjiajie:
Zhangjiajie is just a small mountain city. As long as you are in the urban area, taking a taxi from the east end of town to the west end costs only 20 RMB, and the starting fare is 3 RMB
. Taking the No. 10 ring bus costs 1 RMB per person, and
you can tour around the whole of Zhangjiajie. If you have good stamina and enjoy strolling, walking around the urban area is also quite easy!
Distances from Zhangjiajie urban area to various scenic spots
Suoxiyu 32 km, Yellow Dragon Cave 40 km, Zhangjiajie Park 32 km
Maoyan River 35 km, Jiutian Cave 80 km, Tianzi Mountain 102 km; between these scenic spots, most have public
buses running, one every 15 minutes.
After entering the mountain, shuttle buses run between the scenic spots, which is very convenient. If you want a more relaxed experience, you can take the mountain cable cars and sedan chairs. The Tianzi Mountain cable
car costs 52 RMB per person for both up and down; the Huangshizhai cable car costs 48 RMB per person for both up and down; the Bailong Elevator costs 56 RMB per person for both up and down;
you can also take a sedan chair, which is a bit more expensive than the cable car — generally 100 RMB on flat ground and 200 RMB going uphill. You can bargain it down a bit, depending on your
ability.
4. What to do in Zhangjiajie:
In Zhangjiajie, it is the local folk entertainment that is really interesting — Tujia Maogusi dance, Tujia hand-waving dance, Tujia martial arts hard
qigong, Tujia brocade (Xilankapu), Tujia Yang opera, etc., which still retain distinct traditional characteristics and are the essence of ethnic customs.
Things to do in the city: In the urban area, the place worth visiting is the Tujia Customs Park (80 RMB per person, passed by the No. 10 ring bus, and reachable by taxi for 5 RMB).
The Tujia Customs Park mainly introduces the architecture and customs of some ethnic minorities. Inside there is already a nine-tiered
stilted building that has set a Guinness World Record, and there are Tujia folk performances every night, such as walking on knives and fire, and the Ghost Valley Divine Skill;
There is also the Old Courtyard and Xiuhua Mountain Hall (30 RMB per person), which are also worth a visit;
Tianmen Mountain (one-day tour): (258 RMB per person, including cable car) It would be a pity not to go. It is the earliest famous mountain in Zhangjiajie to be recorded in historical annals,
with an elevation of 1,518.6 meters, standing majestically on the edge of Zhangjiajie's urban area, only 8 km from the city. It is one of Zhangjiajie's most representative natural landscapes. It has the world's
longest cable car — the Tianmen Mountain cable car — letting you truly experience the feeling of rising above the ordinary; there is the wonder of China's highways — the winding
mountain road; then climb 999 steps and you will arrive right at the bottom of Tianmen Cave. In May 1997, the famous singer Li Na ascended Tianmen Mountain and, as if enlightened by some mysterious power, suddenly gained insight and converted to Buddhism, causing a nationwide sensation at the time. In 1999 and 2006, world stunt flying masters piloted aircraft through Tianmen Cave, achieving the feat of the first manned airplane flight through a natural karst cave in human history and shocking the world; the French spider-man Alain Robert, who had once climbed the Empire State Building in New York and the Eiffel Tower in France by hand, successfully challenged Tianmen Mountain on November 18, 2007, performing a “ballet in the air” on a cliff nearly 200 meters vertical.
In addition, Dayong Bridge Park is a very nice place to rest. It is free, and you can see the majestic Tianmen Mountain, which is where the plane flew through Tianmen
Cave. On Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays starting at 7 p.m., there is a large musical fountain show, and the scenery is very nice!
Along the way in the Zhangjiajie scenic area, there are many spots for listening to mountain songs, each with several Tujia girls. You can request songs according to the song list, or let them
sing their specialties; it only costs 10 RMB. The “Sky Song Stage” at the “Wulong Village” scenic spot is the best place to listen to mountain songs. It is located halfway up the mountain, facing an empty
valley, and the opposite peaks form a natural echo screen. You must stand facing the valley to listen, because only then can you truly feel the original charm of the mountain songs echoing through the empty valley.
5. Shopping in Zhangjiajie
Zhangjiajie's urban area is not large. The relatively large and well-stocked shopping places are Bubugao Supermarket, Guanghe Shopping Center, and Meini Supermarket, etc. Zhangjiajie has
many local specialties, especially kiwifruit, Qingyan Mingcui tea, lobster flower tea, and pine mushrooms, which are relatively famous, original in flavor, and cheap and good; Sangzhi salted dried tofu
was a tribute product in the Qing Dynasty; “Gegenbao” pure natural green series drinks combine health care and longevity; Maoping Maojian tea has a delicate fragrance, mellow taste, and beautiful color, and drinking
They are good local products for nourishing the lungs and refreshing the mind; in addition, you can also buy some Tujia-flavored "Spicy Girl Spicy Cured Meat" series foods to bring home.
Zhangjiajie Self-Guided Tour Tips Part Four: Things to Note in Zhangjiajie
1. Zhangjiajie has many water-based attractions, such as rafting. The best time for rafting is from May to October. At other times, because the temperature is lower
and it is close to the dry season, it is best to give it up;
2. There is a big temperature difference between the mountain top and the foot of the mountain in Zhangjiajie, especially in autumn and winter. The temperature in the Zhangjiajie scenic area is relatively low, so be sure to bring warm clothes; it is best not
to wear high heels; the less luggage the better, and the lighter the better, because your accommodation in the mountains is not fixed each day, and you have to carry your bag with you all the way. It is best to bring an umbrella
or rainproof clothing and pants, sunglasses, a sun hat, and at least three sets of replacement underwear and socks. Prepare some tissues and disinfecting wet wipes (available in large supermarkets).
Shoes should be thick-soled, non-slip sports shoes. Bring extra film. Also prepare some simple medicines such as band-aids, anti-inflammatory tablets, and anti-diarrhea tablets.
3. After arriving in Zhangjiajie, do not take the so-called free or low-price special airport or station pickup vehicles at the railway station or airport. The best transportation is by taxi,
by bus, or by a vehicle arranged in advance by a guide you have contacted. Otherwise, they may take you to places you do not want to go; do not easily trust guides or touts who offer overly low tour prices or are excessively enthusiastic. They are very likely to be "wild cats"; friends who drive to Zhangjiajie themselves must absolutely not let strangers ride in your car along the way (: at forks or crossroads,
or toll stations). They are very likely to be "high-level wild cats"; many "wild cats" will work in public places under the guise of reception by ××× legitimate travel
agencies and engage in illegal tourism reception. Tourists must not easily trust them.
4. The best time to travel to Zhangjiajie is April and October each year. In these two months, Zhangjiajie's natural scenery is the most beautiful. The Zhangjiajie scenic
area has Spring Festival, Labor Day, summer vacation, and National Day as its peak tourist seasons each year. Once the peak season arrives, all prices for food, accommodation, and transportation will rise by about 50% to
100%, and it is very likely that you will not be able to find a place to stay. Everyone is advised to avoid these times as much as possible.
5. If driving yourself, it is best to park your car in Zhangjiajie city, as this makes it easier to arrange your itinerary; dining inside the Zhangjiajie scenic area is very expensive, because the mountains are high and food
must be carried or shouldered up by villagers, so the cost is relatively high.
6. Booking return tickets: Booking flight tickets in Zhangjiajie requires no service fee, but train tickets are very difficult, so it is best to book return tickets in advance;
7. For self-guided tours, it is best not to follow a group, because many attractions are not visited by groups. Finding a professional guide to serve you exclusively can save you a lot of worry;
8. The Zhangjiajie scenic area uses a 248 RMB/person through-ticket system. There are 5 ticket stations for entry, namely Forest Park Ticket Station, Wulingyuan Ticket
Station, Tianzi Mountain Ticket Station, Zimugang Ticket Station, and Yangjiajie Ticket Station. Buying a ticket at any ticket station allows you to enter the scenic area. Currently, more than 95 percent
of visitors enter the mountain from Forest Park Ticket Station or Wulingyuan Ticket Station, and only very few enter from the other 3 ticket stations;
First, because the locations of these 3 ticket stations are relatively remote, taking a car requires 3.5---4 hours, and there are very few scheduled trips; second, because this section is being upgraded from a rural road to a standard road, and the road is very messy during construction. Some "wild cat" guides who "trap" tourists at railway (bus) stations and airports are exploiting the loopholes in ticket management at these 3 ticket stations, using the method of "sneaking tickets" to lure tourists with low prices, and then taking a detour of 5—6 hours into the mountain. This has now attracted great attention from the government. Once caught, both the "wild cat" guide and the tourists are heavily fined. Remember this!
9. Going out to travel is for having fun and enjoying yourself. So do not care too much about small matters; absolutely do not believe strangers who knock on your door in the middle of the night for a "one-night romance." For the sake of a moment's pleasure, do not let Zhangjiajie become your nightmare trip!
When is the peak season?
Answer: As Zhangjiajie's fame continues to rise, the number of tourists increases substantially every year, and the gap between Zhangjiajie's peak and off seasons has therefore become shorter
and shorter. In the minds of many tourists, the peak season is always only during "May Day" and "National Day." Understanding Zhangjiajie's tourism market with this view
is very wrong. The current monthly tourism popularity index of Zhangjiajie is distinguished with ★ as follows, for travel reference.
July and August plus Chinese New Year: ★★★★ (Fairly busy)
April, May, June, September, October: ★★★ (Busy)
November, March: ★★ (Moderate)
December, January, February: ★★ (Moderate)
Regardless of the season, on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, visitor numbers will increase noticeably compared to other days of the week. Based on the tourism popularity index for Zhangjiajie in the different months and periods above, travelers should make corresponding booking arrangements in advance to avoid difficulties with reception and accommodation.
Finally, here is a travelogue from a netizen after returning from a DIY trip to Zhangjiajie/Fenghuang:
It has already been several days since I returned from Zhangjiajie, yet my heart still cannot settle, and my thoughts remain in beautiful Zhangjiajie, the quiet Golden Whip Stream,
the majestic Yuanjiajie, and the ancient Fenghuang Ancient Town. And everything else there…… ……Here I will slowly and carefully recount this entire trip for everyone,
first to help those friends who are preparing to go to Zhangjiajie, and second to let me savor this wonderful journey once more! Since someone from the company had been there before,
I got information about a self-guided tour guide in Zhangjiajie from a friend. So I consulted her by phone and got detailed information on QQ. During that period, Zhangjiajie
had been raining continuously and the weather was rather cold. Rainy days are actually the worst time to visit Zhangjiajie, but since the vacation dates were already set, we had no choice but to go anyway.
After discussing with Guide Yang, we decided to ask her to arrange everything for us. We agreed on three days and two nights in Zhangjiajie (including guide, meals, accommodation, and main attraction entrance tickets),
with all costs included, and each of us paid 470 RMB. I think this was already quite cheap. Because we came in a hurry and were not well prepared,
and also really wanted to try the self-guided tour our friend had recommended! So for the route, we referred to the regular three-day itinerary introduced by Guide Liu. The
three-day schedule was as follows: Day One: Zhangjiajie National Forest Park Scenic Area: Golden Whip Stream——Water Winding Around Four Gates; in the afternoon Yuanjiajie: No. 1 Bridge Under Heaven—
—Enchanting Terrace——Back Garden. Day Two: Daguantai: Immortal Bridge——Tianzi Seat——One Step That's Hard to Take; in the afternoon Yangjiajie Scenic Area: Wulong Village——Tianbo
Mansion. Day Three: Tianzi Mountain Scenic Area: Shentang Bend——Point General Terrace——He Long Park tour route; in the afternoon Ten-Mile Gallery: Herb-Gathering Old Man——Three Sisters Peak, then return
to Zhangjiajie. A group of 7 set out from Guangzhou, taking train N590, which departed Guangzhou Railway Station at 19:58. After 13 hours of bumping along, the second
day around 10:00 a.m. we arrived at Zhangjiajie Railway Station, and it was still drizzling. At the station exit, we finally met the legendary Guide Liu. We boarded
Bus No. 6 to the city bus station, because it turned out that only from the bus station were there buses heading to the Zhangjiajie scenic area. From the city bus station to Zhangjiajie National Forest
Park there were many buses, one every ten minutes, with a fare of 10 RMB per person. After a ride of more than 40 minutes, we arrived at the entrance of the Forest Park, and before our eyes
appeared a large area of independent stone peak forest. Day One: Golden Whip Stream——Water Winding Around Four Gates. Yuanjiajie: No. 1 Bridge Under Heaven——Enchanting Terrace——Back Garden. First
we took the route along Golden Whip Stream. Golden Whip Stream is 7.5 kilometers long in total, and its terminal point is Water Winding Around Four Gates. The stream surface is about twenty meters wide, but in shallow places the water barely covers the instep. It is named after
flowing past a Golden Whip Rock. It flows out of Zhangjiajie for dozens of kilometers, passes through Suoxiyu, and joins the Lishui River, becoming one of the source streams of Dongting Lake hundreds of li away.
Golden Whip Stream winds left and right between the two gorges, and a bluestone ancient path follows the stream downward. Along the way, trees screen and shade it, peaks turn and water twists, and it is quite quiet and
cool. Along the way, Guide Yang explained slowly. Between the two gorges, the width is no more than fifty meters, and those towering mountains press in on both sides at this moment. Such a close distance makes it impossible
to gaze far into the distance. You can only raise your head and pay respects to the cloud-piercing peaks, experiencing their magnificent momentum and graceful bearing. Only at this moment is the true face of these mountains fully revealed.
It is no longer a continuous rolling range, but rather the vertical joints, the smooth eroded surfaces, and even the cracks split open by mountain vines. Another
feature along Golden Whip Stream is its cleanliness. On the bluestone ancient path, we occasionally met staff cleaning the already very tidy mountain road, not allowing a single piece of paper or bag to remain. Their focus
and dedication are rarely seen. We listened to Guide Liu tell the legends of one peak after another and appreciated their graceful forms. Along the way, we viewed the scenic spots on the cliffs beside us.
There is the deep bond between mother and child, Zhu Bajie carrying his wife on his back, the Divine Eagle Guarding the Whip, Wenxing Rock, Purple Grass Pool, and the Meeting of a Thousand Miles—they all feel very vivid. The mountains here are like
pillars stuck into the ground, very unique. We also saw the Golden Whip Rock that gave Golden Whip Stream its name, a solitary stone peak rising straight up into the clouds,
just like the whip used in ancient warfare. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate, and we could not see the golden color shining on it in the setting sun that Guide Yang described. Right next to Golden Whip Rock
is an eagle with spread wings. Because there is another peak opposite that looks like a drunken monk, leaning 15 degrees toward Golden Whip Rock, saying he wants to steal the golden whip, but
because the eagle keeps watch day and night, the monk has never succeeded, so it is named the Divine Eagle Guarding the Whip. Guide Yang said a photographer won a huge prize of 100,000 pounds for photographing
the Divine Eagle Guarding the Whip…… After walking and stopping for more than an hour, we came to a fork. On the right was the way to Water Winding Around Four Gates. The stone
steps on the left kept climbing up to the Back Garden (a scenic spot in Yuanjiajie). Guide Liu asked whether we wanted to climb the mountain or walk to Water Winding Around Four Gates and take the Bailong Elevator up. Since we wanted to save energy and also wanted to see more scenery, we all agreed to take the Bailong Elevator. For the latter half of the journey we walked for nearly another hour,
then took the eco-bus from Water Winding Around Four Gates to the Bailong Elevator. The elevator was 56 RMB per person. Guide Liu had a tour guide certificate, so in the scenic area the tickets, elevator, and cableway were all free. I really
want to take the exam for a tour guide certificate too. It would be so great to travel in the future~~ At this time there were very few people. There were only seven of us in the elevator, while during the May Day holiday you had to
line up for 1-2 hours. Terrifying~~ When the elevator rose to the top of the mountain, immediately there was another scene. We all at the same time said “wow” and exclaimed that the scenery was too beautiful. Guide Liu
told us that later we would see even more beautiful scenery. Later it proved that these words were true, but seeing scenery really does need to be done step by step, gradually entering a better and better state. For example, the last scenic spot we went to, Ten-Mile Gallery, was originally quite good, but after seeing beautiful scenery for the previous two days, our eyes had become picky, so we felt it was just so-so. Coming out of the Bailong Elevator,
we took the eco-bus to Mihun Terrace and began touring the Yuanjiajie Scenic Area. Guide Liu said there were especially many Korean guests here, and indeed at Mihun Terrace several Korean tour groups came one after another, noisy and clamorous, breaking the originally quiet beauty. After touring the Back Garden, Mihun Terrace, the Number One Bridge Under Heaven, and the Hundred-Yuan Banknote, it was about 2 hours or so. Yuanjiajie, with its thick and tall stone peaks, lush growing green trees, and ravines a thousand feet deep, forms Zhangjiajie's most
distinctive and enchanting picture. What is especially worth seeing is the Back Garden. As soon as you stand on the viewing platform, hundreds of stone peaks stand quietly in the canyon, piercing straight into the blue
sky, like soldiers in formation, like a gathering of sages, with myriad postures and extraordinary momentum. Scenic sights such as the Heavenly Dog Looking at the Moon, the Conch Emerging from Water, the General's Formation, and a Single Pillar Holding Up the Sky are orderly separated by mountain hollows and barriers, making these stone peaks look even more row upon row, crowded together, and magnificent. Standing on Mihun Terrace and looking down at the peaks, not only is your soul enchanted, your heart and spirit will also be left in the canyon. After touring Yuanjiajie, we took a car to Wulong Village Farmhouse to stay. Dinner was eaten at the inn.
Perhaps because we had consumed too much energy, the dishes tasted especially appetizing, and the six dishes were completely cleaned up by us. Guide Liu even added one dish for us for free.
Special reminder: the farmhouse inn was fairly clean, with an independent bathroom and satellite TV. After washing, I borrowed the owner's hair dryer to dry my hair and went to bed early. Perhaps because I had lived in the city too long and suddenly exercised, I was a bit tired, and I slept especially soundly that night. The public toilets on the mountain and the inn toilet were both fairly clean, and there were also sinks. The places where we ate all provided boiled water to scald the bowls, so bringing 1 pack of wet wipes in pull-top style (10-20 sheets inside) is enough. In a little while, Zhangjiajie's rainy season will
arrive. It is inconvenient to hold an umbrella on the mountain, so it is best to wear a raincoat. You can bring your own, and they are also sold everywhere on the mountain. If your bag is not rainproof, you can put things in a large Ziplock sealed bag and then stuff them into the bag. Before sealing, squeeze the air out of the sealed bag, which saves space. The weather on the mountain is changeable, and it is hard to tell whether it will be sunny or rainy. Some places are suitable for seeing the sea of clouds after rain, while in some places you can see nothing at all when there is fog. You can learn about this in advance or ask your guide for suggestions. Plans should be made, but do not be too rigid about them. No matter how detailed the plan is, unexpected changes are unavoidable.
Day Two: Daguantai: Immortal Bridge——
Tianzi Seat——One Step Is Hard to Walk; in the afternoon, Yangjiajie Scenic Area: Wulong Village——Tianbo Mansion. On the second day, when we got up, Guide Liu excitedly told us that many silvery-white icicles had formed on the treetops. Hehe~~ For us who had never seen snow, that moment was like discovering a new continent! After hurriedly eating breakfast, under Guide Yang's
leadership, we took a car to Daguantai Scenic Area. After about fifteen minutes by car from the First Bridge parking lot, we arrived at Daguantai. Getting off the eco-bus, a cold wind hit us in the face, and the scenery that came into view was truly indescribable. All the branches were sparkling and silvery, and even the power lines were as thick as mops.
. The Grand Sightseeing Platform has four viewing decks. Going down to the mountainside, to the right are the Immortal Bridge and the Emperor's Seat, and to the left are the Divine Chicken Pecking and One Step Too Hard. Among them, One Step Too Hard
and the Immortal Bridge left the deepest impressions. It is called One Step Too Hard because between two peaks there is a natural crack nearly one meter wide. Although
it is less than one meter wide, standing on one side of the peak, to easily step across this one-meter-wide distance to the other side of the peak really requires a certain amount of cour
age and boldness. It is said that a professor from Peking University once fell into the valley because he failed to step across, and never came back up. Although for safety
reasons this crack has now been covered with iron netting, and visitors can safely travel between the two peaks, it still feels extremely thrilling. The Immortal Bridge is formed by
a naturally formed suspended rock serving as the bridge deck connecting the two sides of the canyon. The bridge deck is only 1.5 meters wide, with no railings on either side, and beneath the bridge
is a canyon thousands of feet deep. Guide Xu said that when the sister of King Tianzi, Miss Jinhua, was chased here by enemy soldiers, ahead of her were cliffs and precipices. Because she and her horse were
exhausted, she took a nap there. In her dream, a black-faced general holding a long sword fiercely slashed down at her, frightening Miss Jinhua awake. She rubbed her sleepy eyes
and saw a huge rock steadily spanning the two stone peaks in front of her. The abyss had become a passage, and for this reason it was named the Immortal Bridge. There were very few tourists at the Grand Sightseeing Platform. We met two tourists from Beijing, and there was even a small episode. Perhaps
their guide was not very good. Seeing that we were having a great time with Guide Yang, they strongly requested to join us, but Guide Yang politely declined. We did not
mind, but Guide Liu said that everyone here is working as a guide, and doing that would be stealing business. He also said that because more and more people in Zhangjiajie are doing self-guided tours,
many of them are inevitably just starting out, but generally they will not cheat guests. Hehe~~ We could not help secretly feeling glad that we had found Guide Liu…… We returned
along the same route to the Grand Sightseeing Platform and had lunch at a small restaurant at the top of the mountain. Guide Liu and we sat around a small square table in the open air and ate pickles, spicy meat, and other local
specialty dishes. After enjoying lunch, we headed to Yangjiajie Scenic Area. Yangjiajie is a newly developed scenic area, and ordinary tour groups relatively seldom
go there. Of course we could not miss it. It is comparable to Tianzi Mountain. When going to Yangjiajie, you cannot miss the “Wulong Village Bandit Den.” There you can
experience being a bandit for a while. (Of course, if you are a super obese person, it is best not to go. To reach the bandit headquarters, you must pass through a small stone
gap. That gap is so small that any adult must turn sideways to pass through. If your weight is over 100KG, hehe, then
you had better not go be a bandit!) The scenic spots at Wulong Village include: Tianbo Mansion, Echo Mountain, One Step to Heaven, Sky Corridor……. The most brilliant scenery is of course
Tianbo Mansion, with four naturally formed ancient city walls, as well as the Turtle and Snake Fighting one on each side in the distance on the mountaintop, and patches of thick, tall stone peaks. Because Yangjiajie
is very close to where we were staying, we did not want to return to the hotel too early. It was not until after five in the evening that we went back. After dinner, having nothing to do, several of us
played Big Two. Day Three: Tianzi Mountain Scenic Area: Shentang Bend——Point General Platform——He Long Park tour route; in the afternoon, Ten-Mile Gallery: Old Man Gathering Herbs——Three
Sisters Peak, return to Zhangjiajie. Today's itinerary was relatively easy. After breakfast, we took the eco-bus to "Shentang Bend," where there are many mysterious
legends. Because this scenic spot is not on group tour routes, there are very few tourists. Walking and looking along the way was very leisurely. It is said that in the early Ming Dynasty, an ancient Tujia
leader, King Tianzi, was defeated and trapped at Shentang Bend. In the end, unable to hold on, his entire army jumped off the cliff to their deaths. Whenever it is rainy or the weather changes suddenly,
you can faintly hear the sounds of people shouting and horses neighing from the bottom of the cliff…… Not far from Shentang Bend is the Point General Platform. Below it, the Forty-Eight General Rocks are lifelike,
just like generals and soldiers ready to set out. Next we walked to He Long Park, a place tour groups go. As you can imagine, there were people everywhere, mostly South Koreans.
In the past two days, we saw more South Koreans than Chinese. Korean writing could be seen everywhere in the scenic area. Even vendors could solicit business in Korean, which shows how strong Zhangjiajie's promotional efforts are in South Korea. Somewhat irritated, we hurriedly went around once and it was already noon. We had lunch at a small restaurant at the top of the mountain. Then we
took the cableway down the mountain (upward 52 RMB/person, downward 52 RMB/person), and went to the Ten-Mile Gallery. Many people took the mini train to view the Ten-Mile Gallery. We walked.
The path was very narrow. The river on the left no longer had flowing water. It is said that a flood once changed the course of the underground river at the source, and since then only after heavy rain does the Ten-Mile Gal
Only then will there be water in the gallery. But the peaks on both sides tower aloft, especially the "Herb-Gathering Old Man," the "Three Sisters," and the like—they are very vivid. After touring the Ten-Mile Gallery, our itinerary in the Zhangjiajie Scenic Area was also declared over, and we felt we still wanted more. Green Mountains and Clear Waters—Fenghuang. At the Ten-Mile Gallery we took the eco-friendly bus out to the scenic area's another main gate (Wulingyuan Ticket Station). Because there were many of us, we chartered a minivan and headed straight for Zhangjiajie (120 RMB per vehicle), bought tickets for the 17:30 train from Zhangjiajie to Jishou, and after a ride of about 2 hours arrived in Jishou around 7:30 in the evening. To save time, after getting off the train we again hired a minivan and headed straight for Fenghuang Ancient Town (120 RMB per vehicle), arriving in Fenghuang at about 9 p.m. Because it was the off-season, we quickly found a guesthouse and checked in, then went to taste Fenghuang's food. One of our main goals in coming to Fenghuang was to eat. As soon as we arrived in Fenghuang, heedless of the dust of travel all over us, we looked everywhere for a food street, and finally found it. Haha, there was also uniquely flavored teppanyaki, grilled over charcoal and very delicious. The prices were also very cheap, about 1—5 RMB per item, and 0.5 RMB per skewer for malatang; we tried a bit of each variety, and only after finishing did we realize the broth base was never changed—who knows how long its history is. The 0.1 RMB per skewer roast mutton we ordered a lot of, and ate it along with the local strangely flavored beer. There were also chewy tangyuan; the six of us ate and drank our fill for less than 80 RMB. Hunan people are not afraid of spiciness, and they put chili in every dish. By rights, Cantonese people are the most afraid of spiciness, but we were happy to have something spicy almost every meal, and would not stop until our heads were sweating and our lips were on fire—probably because of the local climate and water. Fenghuang's duck is something we had long heard about. When the fragrant, spicy braised duck was brought to the table, everyone grabbed the duck legs. The whole plate was glossy with red chilies, yet it did not feel very spicy, nor was it greasy, and it was very appetizing. The duck meat was neither tough nor mushy, fresh and rich in flavor. The braised small fish was fish from the Tuo River, and tasted delicious. The baby bok choy was as crisp as lettuce, and radish leaves, also called "golden vegetable," were very sweet and tender. There were also specialty dishes such as rock ear and jar fungus, good quality and cheap. Among them, the food at the Ambassador Hotel in Fenghuang was the best. We enjoyed several meals here, and before leaving we still feasted here. Fenghuang's sweet rice wine is just like her scenery: at first it feels mellow and sweet, and then it goes to your head. Especially the sweet rice wine put in bamboo tubes and warmed in water has a more unique fresh fragrance. The Tuo River winds through Fenghuang Ancient Town. On the river there is a small bridge, with low piers paved with planks about a chi wide; when people coming and going meet, they have to turn sideways to pass. Legend says that in the past there were no planks, and when crossing the bridge one had to jump from pier to pier, hence the name "Jumping Rock." But I found that now the distance between two piers is about 5 meters; without the martial arts skill of walking on water, one cannot jump across. Early in the morning by the Tuo River there are many women washing clothes, and walking on the city wall along the bank you can hear the heavy, rhythmic sound of pounding clothes. Under the night sky, the Tuo River has another kind of tranquility. We sat by the Tuo River at the foot of the city wall chatting. Looking at the scattered lights on the opposite bank drifting in the dark water, with only the faint sound of flowing water in our ears, everyone was immersed in such a quiet night. In the morning, we rented a boat and went downstream from the North Gate. The Tuo River's water is clear; the channel by the city wall is very shallow, the current leisurely and gentle, and you can see water plants swaying in the soft waves, and you can pole along slowly with a long bamboo pole. On the south bank of the Tuo River is the ancient city wall, built of purplish-red sandstone, elegant yet still majestic. The city wall has two gate towers, east and north, long weathered by time yet still spectacular. After the boat passed the East Gate Tower, it went through the Rainbow Bridge. The Rainbow Bridge is an ancient bridge; originally there was a covered wind-and-rain corridor on the bridge, but it was dismantled when the road was built, and now it has been rebuilt. Around the Rainbow Bridge you can occasionally see stilted houses, but on the stilted houses there are no Xiangxi women looking at the scenery. Past the Rainbow Bridge is the Shawan Scenic Area, where you can see famous sites on both banks such as Duocui Tower and Wanmin Pagoda. The small boat went from the North Gate to Tingtao Park, passing two dams along the way. When crossing the dams we had to go ashore and cross over the dam, while the boatman poled the boat down to the lower reaches; when going upstream, the boat had to be pulled up from a slope. The guesthouse where we stayed in Fenghuang was called "Fenghuang Apartment." From the balcony you could see the night view of the Tuo River; opposite the river is Nanhua Mountain, and you could see the verdant mountain scenery: "I see how charming the green mountains are, and I expect the green mountains see me the same way." Nanhua Mountain is a national forest park, its peaks not high, with stone steps laid out. The trees are dense, and the peaks vie in beauty. The air is fresh and refreshing; in city dwellers' terms, it is a natural oxygen bar. Unfortunately, because of time constraints, we did not get to go. A place endowed with outstanding people and land. Fenghuang has a long history and has produced many famous people; among those familiar to modern people are Shen Congwen and Huang Yongyu. Shen Congwen's former residence is in the town, a typical southern siheyuan, with a brick-and-wood structure. Inside are displayed Shen Congwen's photographs, works, and the objects he used. Hanging inside is a photo of him during his time in the army, with unkempt hair. "A soldier either dies on the battlefield or returns to his hometown."Xiang" — this is the inscription Huang Yongyu wrote in front of his uncle Shen Congwen's grave. Shen Congwen's grave is located in Tingtao Park. There is no tomb mound, just a large natural
stone erected. Carved on the front of the stone, in Shen Congwen's own calligraphy, is: "Think as I do, and you can understand 'me'; think as I do, and you can understand people." On the back of the stone is a couplet written by Shen
Congwen's sister-in-law Zhang Chonghe: "Unbending and unyielding, yet kind and yielding; his writing shines like the stars, his heart is that of a newborn child." There is also another stele at the grave, inscribed with the preface Shen Congwen's
wife Zhang Zhaohe wrote for their collection of letters, every line filled with poignant longing. Duocui Tower is the new residence of the great painter Huang Yongyu, and everyone
who has been to Fenghuang knows it. Duocui Tower stands by the Tuo River. It has a paifang-style structure, exquisite and distinctive. In front of the door is a small wooden sign: "Private residence, no
visitors." But if you ask where Huang Yongyu's former residence is, not every person from Fenghuang knows. Following a small map, on the afternoon of the 3rd, we came
to an approximate area, then asked local residents, and came to an ordinary house, at whose entrance was written: "Beware of the fierce dog, visitors take care."
That private homes can be casually visited by strangers, I think perhaps only happens in Fenghuang. The people of Fenghuang are very simple and honest; when asked for directions, they will enthusiastically point the way. Everywhere in Fenghuang,
a mellow humanistic atmosphere is given off unintentionally. Most of the buildings have upturned eaves and raised corners, and every doorway has couplets, some carved on wooden boards. I saw
one household with this posted at the door: "I only ask that there be no ghosts in my heart; why must there be gods above the door?" The owner's openness and uprightness are evident at a glance. In Fenghuang, we felt a kind of leisurely ease far from
the noise of the world and a rich, deep simplicity. Dehang We said goodbye to the ancient town of Fenghuang and took a chartered minibus to Dehang. From Jishou, Dehang is about a 40-minute drive.
Dehang, in the Miao language, means "beautiful canyon." At Dehang you buy a ticket to enter the village. Inside is a new Miao village; only behind the village lies the essence of the scenic area. Walking
into the deep, secluded canyon, we had no sense of direction and only knew that the source of the stream was the waterfall. Following the winding stream, sometimes walking through fields, sometimes climbing
steep mountain slopes, sometimes crossing the stream. Because it had rained a few days earlier, the rocks were very slippery. Everyone was careful and helped each other climb. On both sides, peaks and ridges piled up in green layers, and sheer cliffs rose high. There were no pedestrians on the road. Only later did we learn that this route did not lead to the main scenic spot, the waterfall group. After more than an hour of trekking, we
finally saw a thin, delicate waterfall, like a pure white silk ribbon hanging on the cliff. Continuing to climb upward, we suddenly discovered Conch Peak. Happily
we climbed to the summit. The top of the peak was a flat platform. Standing on the summit and gazing into the distance, the sheer ridges rose and fell in picturesque disorder, and at this moment were draped in a layer of evening glow, like a painting.
After enduring countless hardships, to be able to enjoy such boundless scenery, the feeling is hard to describe. Returning to Jishou, this journey came to a perfect end. At 18:50 in the afternoon,
we boarded the train back to Guangzhou, and arrived back in Guangzhou after 10 the next morning. Addenda to the travel notes: 1. The Zhangjiajie scenic area is very large, and the scenic spots are relatively scattered. Finding
a guide is very necessary, especially finding a good guide. For example, the two tourists from Beijing whom we met at Daguantai were not enjoying themselves
very happily.
o(╯□╰)o Dizzying, the text is a bit dense, I hope readers will forgive me......
